Hi again guys!
I know it's been discussed numerous times here, but per a couple requests, here are some details so you can do it yourself. (Disclaimer first: I'd strongly advise buying a Scanguage 2 to use in conjunction with either or both of these mods.) For the radiator block mod, I used a thick (about 1/16" thick )piece of somewhat flexible plastic, which covers about half of the radiators surface. See pics for exact dimensions of mine. I left a small tab at the top right to lift it out with no tools. Simple. Slid between the front of the radiator and the a/c condenser. I only use it in outside temps of 45 degrees or below.
For the Intake hot air mod, it's as simple as a piece of heat riser tubing. This is 2" diameter, 3 foot long. It just makes it in length. First, the tube is aluminum and accordian-like. It comes collapsed in a 1 foot box. You must carefully "stretch" the tubing to it's fullest straight 3 foot length, being careful not to dent or crush it, as it is very thin. Once stretched to a straight 3 foot length, pull the plastic intake tubes off you air box. Pre-bend the tubing into a tight "J" shape. Slide the long straight end of the tubing under the thick orange electrical lead and over towards the passenger side, behing the engine, as shown in the pics. Attach the "J" end to the air box using the stock butterfly clamp. Pull the other end (carefully) up around the underside of the exhaust manifold (under the cat.) Pull it as close as possible to the manifold. Here it sits and will stay in place by itself. It does not bounce around at all. I use it even in summer. My summer intake air temp hangs around 110-115 degrees, and the car seems to stay in lean burn most often. These intake temps have not made my engine run any hotter than normal (stays at 200-202.) In 25 degree outside temps, my intake air temp was 70-75 degrees while driving, not as hot as I'd like it, but still far better than the 25 degrees!
Thanks Chris! - the photo of the hose carton was key for me to find something that would work. I found a very similar one on ebay...Looks lilke I'll finally get that hot air mod in.
Wayne
Is there any advantage of running the Hot Air Intake behind the engine directly to the airbox vs.
running it in the front and into the air intake tube?
I don't know how you'd get hot air to the front of the stock inlet tube, but assuming you can, three things come to mind:
1. Where is the hot air coming from and how hot is it in comparison to the exhaust manifold heat (which I would think would be the hottest.)
2. Being up front, it might have more tendancy to cool as it passes through the tubes, and
3. Take a look at the 2 stock black plastic inlet tubes that go to the airbox. See how small they get in inside diameter and how many twists and turns it has compared to the 2" inside diameter heat riser tubing with one smooth "J" shape? I'd think the mod can only increase air flow (definitely less restrictive.)
Unrelated, (but talking about less restriction,) I am also running a K&N air filter, which is the least restrictive air filter for the insight on the market. Rediculous at $35, but you can simply clean it and re-oil it and it lasts forever.
About the hose, I got mine at Advanced Auto (I'm pretty sure it's a national chain,) for only about $4. If you use something else, make sure it's 2" inside diameter, and a full 3 foot long.
Thanks Chris. It makes sense. There may also be a benefit to routing it behind the engine due to it's shorter length.
(Here is a pic of routing the tube in the front.)
Somebody stole my pic
(its from my cardomain page, URL in sig)
IMO the route behind is fraught with more twists and turns and is less accessable. Been there, tried that. Chaffing can also be a concern with any route so you need accessability for routine inspection. Cooling and intake runner length are 3rd order concerns. From an MPG standpoint in the "background noise" level of difference.
Hey Freezin 4, where does the "in front" tube wrap around to? In the pic, it disappears out of site! And I agree with Insightful Trekker about elegance is simplicty! The back route is easy to access, half the length, one simple smooth "J" curve as opposed to at least 2 more 90 degree turns, and a larger full 2" I.D. throughout. You decide!
Didn't mean to plagarize. I should have cited source of photo as Insightful Trekker's.
There is pro's and con's with each method.
I am thinking of using Insightful Trekker's method of attaching the tubing to the exhaust, but then routing the tube behind the engine into the airbox.
Thanks for the great advice and pics from both of you.
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Hot Intake Air and Radiator Block Mod Details
