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Battery help please

3K views 13 replies 4 participants last post by  Subdewd2 
#1 · (Edited)
I removed my battery pack in troubleshoot 1449 code.
While checking the voltages of the cell sticks on the BCM c connector they are all roughly the same, say 15.5, except cell stick pair 5. This reads zero between the grn/rd and grn/wh wires,
Now if i check red to white it reads 155 volts.
Soo, i presume that stick 5 bad. Correct? What next, would grid charge help?
 
#2 ·
I don't really understand what you're doing, but each stick has a nominal voltage of only 7.2V, and will be a bit above 8V when fully charged (I think 1.44V X 6 at max). Sounds like you're trying to measure voltages through the BCM wiring, and as I understand it, there's only 1 voltage tap for every 2 sticks, so perhaps you're getting readings for 2 sticks, which would be around 16V...
 
#4 ·
My guess would be 'no', grid charging won't help, if you know for certain that, 1) you are measuring the voltage of a pair of sticks and 2) that voltage is truly zero. If the cells are that dead I don't think charging will help. But I could be wrong. I don't think it'd hurt to try, though. Hook up a grid charger, keep your voltage meter on the sticks that are supposedly bad, and see what happens. Conceptually, the rest of the sticks will take some charge, but once they're charged they'll dissipate the current as heat. Meanwhile, the 'bad' sticks should continue to charge - if they can take a charge at all...

There's some inexpensive constant current power supplies that have recently been used quite a bit for grid charging - 2 in series produce about 300 mA at ~180V unloaded. I bought some recently and put together a charger. Works fine. Amazon sells them, "GINO" power supplies, like $12 a piece... There's a thread somewhere around here, I think in the "Mods" forum, with the title 'grid charger power supplies'...
 
#7 ·
I will provided I can post pics. Otherwise if you have the wireing diagram, under IMA there's what's called the "battery condition monitor" (BCM) connector, top front of of battery module. It's a 2 row 20 pin(female) connector in a harness with a smaller 8 pin connector that goes to the other module.
still learning the conventions but I think it's designated the C connector.
 
#9 ·
Well the voltages on the jumper side seem fine. Perhaps a pull down resistor is open or the sense line open? If so my lucky day I guess. The previous owner had the battery replaced 3 years ago. He got sick of dealing with it and I got a deal on it knowing the 1449. Ever seen or heard of this happening where the sense wire opened?
 
#10 ·
I haven't heard of anything like that...

Is this how you are measuring voltages at the BCM connector? For example, to measure combined voltage of sticks 19 and 20 (as numbered in Mike D.s pack images), negative probe at VHB11 (connector terminal 10 according to Honda diagram) and positive probe at VHB10 (connector terminal 10)? This is what I deduce from the picts and diagram, mostly from the diagram (though the diagram enumerates 'sticks' in the opposite direction from the images)...

sticks 19 & 20, -VHB11 +VHB10
sticks 17 & 18, -VHB10 +VHB9
sticks 15 & 16, -VHB9 +VHB8
sticks 13 & 14, -VHB8 +VHB7
sticks 11 & 12, -VHB7 +VHB6
sticks 9 & 10, -VHB6 +VHB5
sticks 7 & 8, -VHB4 +VHB3
sticks 5 & 6, -VHB3, +VHB2
sticks 3 & 4, -VHB2, +VHB1
sticks 1 & 2, -VHB1, +VHB0
 
#11 ·
Okay so according to the manual i should check the cells in series and not stick to stick, that being the case it looked ok. Maybe the wires I were checking ahve no potential relatively.
Took the pack apart and will go from there.
Thanks for your replies and info.
I am going to post a new thread dealing with cell conditioning.
 
#12 ·
Why?

Numerous threads here at ICN. Just add to a prevaling one.

Willie
 
#13 ·
You are in luck. You have a voltage deviation caused by a broken wire. The orange plate under the electronics (the one with the cable sticking out if it) needs to be replaced. One of your voltage tap wires in the cable is broken. You can try twisting the wire clockwise or counter-clockwise one turn - it might connect enough to work, but otherwise just replace the plate.

My old webpage that I took down but somebody here copied showed the process of removing this plate.

Where are you? Eli in Oregon, Eric in Denver, Matt in Arizona or Dave in North Carolina can do it if you can't.
 
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