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Old 03-19-2017, 04:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KLR3CYL View Post
Here is a photo of of a machined flywheel and rear main seal being ready for shipping.
Scott,
any tips on replacing the rear main seal, I see Honda sells a very expensive tool for the removal of the IMA motor, is that necessary? I'm trying to track down an oil leak (motor is very dirty, hard to tell where it's coming from), but it's not from any of the oil pan seals which I removed and replaced when I did the clutch a few months ago.
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Old 03-19-2017, 08:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default What to look out for when changing rear main seal?

I had the pleasure of changing the clutch, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings, replacing the ISB and removing the clocking tabs from the synchronizer on my Insight a few years ago.

However, I have never experienced the pleasure of changing the rear main seal. What does one need to look out for when removing the IMA motor, and then actually removing the rear main seal? Do we have to remove the IMA cables? I looked, but did not succeed in finding a procedure on this forum.

I am going to try to help a friend (mostly with advice and use of my shop) replace the transmission, clutch, rear main, etc. using the parts KLR3CYL shipped, and wanted to ask for help as I don't want to guide Daniel into a disaster.

Thank you in advance for any help.

Tim Glover
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I replaced the rear main seal on my previous Insight. You need to remove the permanent magnet rotor, for which you will very likely need the special tool. My local Honda dealer lent me the tool at no charge and it made the job easy. Once you remove the rotor, it's just like replacing the seal on any other car. The tool is also used to reinstall the rotor. No need to remove any wiring or the stator.
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Old 03-19-2017, 11:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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An alternate method is to shim the rotor into the housing tightly all the way around.

But then you have to take off the housing/stator with the rotor as a unit, as well.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default Rear main seal

We do the rear main seals often here in the shop along with the replacement of the clutch and or transmission. Getting to the main seal is much easier than others have made it out here in the forum. We have never had to use any special tools to hold the motor, we've probably done this on Insights at least 30 times with no problems, whatsoever.

With the transmission removed, you have to remove the clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held on with 6 10mm head bolts that are 12 point, be sure you have the proper socket.

Remove the flywheel. 6 bolts, 14mm head.

With the flywheel removed there is a plastic cover on the electric motor, remove the 8 bolts, 10mm heads, remove the plastic cover. Remove the 6 bolts, 14mm heads attaching the electric motor to the crankshaft. Near the top of the electric motor there are 2 bolts, 12 mm heads they are visible when the black cover is removed. Remove the bolts and the electric motor is ready to come off, it is now just hanging by the dowel pins and should easily come off.

We do not disconnect the high voltage cables. We swing it out of the way and use a piece of wire or a strap to hang it to the side out of the way.

With the electric motor out of the way, use a screwdriver and hammer, drive the screw driver into the seal and you can pry out the seal. As you pry out the seal you may need to pry against the end of the crankshaft.

With the seal removed, clean the area. Use a small amount of grease on the crankshaft and start fitting the new seal, rotating it on to the crankshaft and into the engine block with your hands, straightening the inner lip of the seal.
Push it in with your hands as far as it will go, then using a hammer gently work your way around the new seal to make it flush with the engine block.

Reassemble the electric motor parts in reverse of how you took them apart.

HTH,
Scott
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Last edited by KLR3CYL; 03-24-2017 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 03-24-2017, 11:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Updated the above post for rear crankshaft main seal replacement.

Scott
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:28 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Updated the above post for rear crankshaft main seal replacement.

Scott
Thanks for this information Scott, I've got one to do in my garage at the moment and I wasn't sure on how to approach it. I see that you have APC seal, can you tell me what that part # is, and describe any differences over the Honda OEM model? Thanks again!
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Old 03-25-2017, 08:59 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Default Thank you!

Thank you so much Scott. We are getting ready to do this tomorrow for Daniel's car, and were not sure what we were up against.

Take care,
Tim Glover
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Old 03-25-2017, 12:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atheos View Post
Thanks for this information Scott, I've got one to do in my garage at the moment and I wasn't sure on how to approach it. I see that you have APC seal, can you tell me what that part # is, and describe any differences over the Honda OEM model? Thanks again!
710610, they do look a bit differnt from OE, however. Seem to work fine. They are about half the cost of OE and they are stocked at a local parts supplier and I can have them in about 10 minutes.

Scott
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Old 03-25-2017, 02:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KLR3CYL View Post
710610, they do look a bit differnt from OE, however. Seem to work fine. They are about half the cost of OE and they are stocked at a local parts supplier and I can have them in about 10 minutes.

Scott
alright, just ordered two.

EDIT: Just finished installing the new seal. It was as simple as you described, Thanks.

Last edited by Atheos; 04-02-2017 at 12:54 AM.
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