Maybe it's my limited car-buying experience, but I don't see how $6300 is a low-ball offer. My first car (the one I drove up in) I ended up paying $1600, when the initial asking price was $1800. I actually didn't try to negotiate the price down at all on that car, because it was already a great price, but when we went to finalize the sale, the seller had me give them $1600, and told me to always negotiate on the price of a car.
I later bought a motorcycle. The seller's initial asking price was $2500, but I didn't make an offer on it when I went to go look at it. A few days later the seller contacted me and said I could have it for $2300. I countered with $2150, which he accepted.
All of my vehicle-buying experience suggests that the agreed-upon price of a car will end up being greater than 10% lower than the initial asking price of a vehicle, which is why - to me - my initial offer of $6000 and final offer of $6300 seemed reasonable. Of course, you did mention that you've sold a few hundred cars, so I probably just have a bad sample.
And no, I wasn't frustrated because you didn't accept the offer. I was frustrated because I spent around $50 in gas and the better part of a day driving up to look at a car that wasn't as clean as I would have expected a car described as "VERY VERY clean" to be.
For clarity, you were polite and friendly, and I don't think that you're trying to sell a bad car, but I wanted any potential buyers to have a better idea of what kind of car it was before they committed the time and money involved in driving up to see it.
Maybe it's my limited car-buying experience, but I don't see how $6300 is a low-ball offer. My first car (the one I drove up in) I ended up paying $1600, when the initial asking price was $1800. I actually didn't try to negotiate the price down at all on that car, because it was already a great price, but when we went to finalize the sale, the seller had me give them $1600, and told me to always negotiate on the price of a car.
I later bought a motorcycle. The seller's initial asking price was $2500, but I didn't make an offer on it when I went to go look at it. A few days later the seller contacted me and said I could have it for $2300. I countered with $2150, which he accepted.
All of my vehicle-buying experience suggests that the agreed-upon price of a car will end up being greater than 10% lower than the initial asking price of a vehicle, which is why - to me - my initial offer of $6000 and final offer of $6300 seemed reasonable. Of course, you did mention that you've sold a few hundred cars, so I probably just have a bad sample.
And no, I wasn't frustrated because you didn't accept the offer. I was frustrated because I spent around $50 in gas and the better part of a day driving up to look at a car that wasn't as clean as I would have expected a car described as "VERY VERY clean" to be.
For clarity, you were polite and friendly, and I don't think that you're trying to sell a bad car, but I wanted any potential buyers to have a better idea of what kind of car it was before they committed the time and money involved in driving up to see it.
$6300 for a $6700 car is NOT a lowball offer. $5000 would be lowball, but frankly, it's a business transaction. If the seller is unwilling to accept less, they can put "FIRM" in the listing.
Me, personally, I'd usually be inclined to consider 10% off of about anything I list for sale. If I get 100% great, if I get 90%, I'm still happy.
$400 off isn't even close to being lowball. if your that tight on your price then put firm after your number. also racersdad : if that car sits in a warehouse without being driven much the ima battery will discharge. and throw a code.
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