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Old 10-26-2012, 10:22 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Im waxing the molds right now. I should have a box ready to be shipped by the end of the week.
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Old 11-21-2012, 01:37 AM   #162 (permalink)
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Got the sub and terminal cup mounted. Any suggestion on what to do if one of the screw holes met with the woofer cutout and busted through? The speaker is designed with very little clearance and I didn't get it centered right - it's not an issue with your box. I'm thinking I'll epoxy putty the hole shut and try and drill the screw through again - or I could leave it and run with 7 out of 8 screws.





I hope this clears the fender, or I'm screwed =p
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Old 11-21-2012, 07:36 AM   #163 (permalink)
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Wow thats one serious lil woofer. I agree epoxy putty should do the trick for you. Thats the only woofer that has impressed me more than the S8L5. Thanks for posting pics it's really nice to see it getting finished.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:47 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Have any instructions on what has to be cut and what can stay? It looks like one of the bolt holes is going to get lost.

TBH I would have happily given up a few ci in exchange for keeping the tabs intact.





So close!
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:16 AM   #165 (permalink)
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I understand what you mean about the tabs. I took my box back out and put the aluminum floor piece back in with the remaining tabs and its still very solid. The box is quite a snug fit which keeps it in place, even in a accident I doubt it would move much since its larger at the bottom than the top. Kind of like a keystone above a window on a brick house. If you get a rattle put a old rag under the box. If your amp is installed give it a test listen, I think youll be happy with it sealed.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:19 AM   #166 (permalink)
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So I got the cutoff lines correct? I was thinking about ripping the tabs off at the spot welds - I've had good luck doing that in other places - but I don't know if that's a smart idea in this case.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:23 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Yes thats what I did, work the aluminum back and forth and it breaks pretty clean at the welded area. I then tap and high spot down with a small hammer,dosnt take much force at all. A dremel with a mini cut off wheel works too. When I put my floor piece back in I dropped a full size car battery on it so see if it bent , no issues at all. Sorry not functioning on all 3 cylinders at the moment,exhausted from a crazy week.
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:25 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Cool, I'll go give it a try on the small tab for now.

I haven't found an easy place to run the 4ga wire yet, so I haven't been able to hear it. Going crazy with anticipation!
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Old 11-22-2012, 12:37 AM   #169 (permalink)
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I like mounting the amp under the passengers seat as long as the amp isnt super thick, most will let the seat slide without any issues. I use velcro to hold the amp to the carpet, along with the heavy gauge wires mine never moves. Then you only have to run your speaker wires to the back. To run the heavy amp power wire I find a large factory grommet. Usually they have factory wires going through them already. I use a piece of metal tubing that I cut the end at a angle. I pierce the grommet with the sharpened tubing taking care to not damage existing wires. The tubing I have is 1/2" diameter. Then I slide my power cable inside the tubing and pull the tubing back inside the car leaving only the wire going through the grommet with a nice snug fit. If there is any gap I seal it with silicone. Make sure you put a fuse near the battery for your positive cable feeding your amp.
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Old 11-22-2012, 04:08 AM   #170 (permalink)
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I would rather go through a grommet with the rest of the wires than punch a hole on the side, but I don't know if I'll be able to fit 4ga wire through the grommet in the driver fender or passenger footwell.

I mounted my amp in the cd changer location:
Amp wiring ?
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