Valve Adjustment Proceedure/Write Up - With Pics

[Balboa]

Originally Posted by Eli

One thing I recommend:

If you're not familiar with the car, ie: you don't know when the last time the valve cover gasket was replaced, replace it.

Here's why: It's not uncommon for this gasket to become hard and start leaking, especially if you remove and replace the valve cover without replacing it. This is obviously undesirable as it makes your engine all nasty. But because the Insight engine only holds 2.6 quarts of oil, this can become a big problem much more quickly than it will with a regular car.

Worth the $16.

Will do. This thread deserves to be a sticky imo.

[Balboa]

About the feeler gauges, haven't used them too much and I'm wondering how much drag do you want checking clearances? Is it suppose to be just a very "slight" friction where it can go out and in pretty easily or are we talking a "medium" friction where the feeler isn't necessarily hard to slide in between or out but has a more noticeable friction to it.

Also what is the purpose of making the clearance as tight as possible within spec? Is there any benefit? Or is the middle of the spec for both intake and exhaust the best choice? There really wasn't much explanation as to why the OP chose tighter clearances.

[Willie Williford]

MIn on the intake and Max clearance on the exhaust is what I use.
HTH
Willie

[Eli]

I think medium friction is more called for.

You can always do the go/no go thing.

IE: If you want 0.06:

0.05 should fit with no drag, and 0.07 should not fit. 0.06 should fit with slight drag.

As for the tighter/looser thing.. it's just personal preference. A tighter tolerance will last longer, as in won't need adjustment again so soon. But definitely don't go too tight.

[Balboa]

Originally Posted by Eli

I think medium friction is more called for.

You can always do the go/no go thing.

IE: If you want 0.06:

0.05 should fit with no drag, and 0.07 should not fit. 0.06 should fit with slight drag.

As for the tighter/looser thing.. it's just personal preference. A tighter tolerance will last longer, as in won't need adjustment again so soon. But definitely don't go too tight.

Yah I was adjusting the intake side to .08.

But now I made a huge mistake. I used a torque wrench to do 14 ft. lbs. of torque and I overtightened one jam nut when I was satisfied with my clearances on the intake side. So basically the stud and jam nut threads are mangled. I should of went by feel instead so that was a big mistake.

I was able to get the jam nut off luckily but the stud on the other hand is also mangled = me screwed. So I'm not too sure how the stud can be removed or how to fix this situation. I'm hoping this isn't an expensive lesson learned type of deal.

[Eli]

Nah, no big deal. The adjusting screws and nuts are cheap.

Honda Automotive Parts

[Balboa]

Cool.

I got the nut off but I'm not too sure how to get that screw out. It doesn't seem to unscrew all the way out like you think it would.

I suppose the rocker arm needs to be removed...

[sam_cotter]

What temperature should the engine be at for adjustment, cold, just warmed up, up to operating temp? I assume cold meaning room temp like 70 degrees or so?

I just reread the first page and answered my own question but I have a new question It is in the 20's were I am is this too cold to do and a vavle adjustment? Should I run the engine until is just barely getting warm?

Thanks

Sam

[bciesq]

Originally Posted by sam_cotter

What temperature should the engine be at for adjustment, cold, just warmed up, up to operating temp? I assume cold meaning room temp like 70 degrees or so?

I just reread the first page and answered my own question but I have a new question It is in the 20's were I am is this too cold to do and a vavle adjustment? Should I run the engine until is just barely getting warm?

Thanks

Sam

I wouldn't run the engine. The whole point to valve lash is that different parts of the motor expand at different rates and to different lengths. Running to motor to a temp that is somewhere between cold and operational is throwing a bunch of variables into the mix. If you are concerned about the low ambient temps, then adjust to the looser end of the range, but stay within the recommended range. If it was me, I'd throw it in the middle of the range and be done with it ... on second thought ... if it was me I wouldn't be doing this until springtime.

[Eli]

There is nothing wrong with adjusting them when the engine is any temperature colder than "warm". Do not run your engine before performing the adjustment.

The factory service manual states that the engine must be below 100 degrees. I always let my car sit overnight before performing a valve adjustment.