Quote:
Originally Posted by Balboa
I'm wondering if my regular battery needs to be changed. I did check the voltage of the battery when the car was off and it was around 12.8 or so...but it could still be bad right?
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Maybe so but likely not, yet well ... It could. lolz
... such as like having an erratic short between the internal lead plates inside the battery. rare perhaps....
But. for the most part, if you're reading consistent 12.8V when the car is off, and the battery isn't bulgy from being frozen before; the case is not cracked; no bad posts; electrolite's good and up via hygrometer reading; it's fairly recently installed; <5 years etc etc; ,, then likely the regular battery will be no problem..[if IMA system is working!].
[re: longevity, in a pickup truck i ran an 'original to vehicle' autolite factory battery for 12 winters before it shorted out falling apart inside. Not sure how long these seldom used little batteries bear up yet]
Shorts could be occurring when running over bad bumps or rough roads or such and the problem may be hard to pickup without having an ampmeter installed and seeing the amp needle drop exactly when it was draining.
What happens is you park the vehicle and suddenly hours later no power and a warmish battery to the touch,.. it could be 'good again' after a recharge then same thing a week later.
fwiw: My '00 has had the stock regular battery replaced three years ago when some other work was done on some modules under warranty at behest of previous owners.
[++fwiw: to make things a lot easier and read all sorts of things on the fly [except reading amps!
] I echo the recommendations to Get something like a scangauge/ultragauge and you won't be disappointed to monitor the regular battery voltage and other things that can save you money, primarily voltage of the second oxygen sensor to key you to your lean burn status.
Better yet, the OBDIIC&C discussed in another thread would tell most all you need to know.]
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***Another thought where your battery could actually be bad even with the reading you obtained when it was tested:
if you tested the battery with
a VoltOhm device with a failing battery itself, i.e. a failing/weak/low 9V battery such as found in lots of seldom used voltmeters, then you could get a higher value for the readout from your car's battery.
//Don't know if that's the case for your meter ..Just sayin': happened to me' and that was said what the problem was in errant readings which still appeared 'normal range'..
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Normal winter maintenance might be all that's required for your battery and it's fine if the voltage and outward condition checks out. ,,,no cracks; topped up electrolite level; clean and brush the posts shiny at the contact points; tighten terminals securely; and check wire connections for fraying or broken strands. etc.,/// a good +ve and -gnd connection is essential.
Maybe even some baking soda or dielectric grease on the outside of the cleaned terminals to help forestall corrosion
.& nb. Don't get any non-conductive grease on the contact surfaces!.
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while on the battery thing: . folks may want to test the normal starter to see it cranks before it gets too cold, but as you turned off the IMA I guess you may have tried that already. Something I got to do. I think turning off/on of the IMA gets it to relearn the SOC and that may recalibrate things, so there may be the difference felt via the drivers seat on acceleration. Please correct me if I'm wrong there.
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btw: echoing the tire stuff: my indications of using Michelins as seen in my sig associated with my personal best mileage, although I love the handling, ride, and wear, are meant to indicate a mileage handicap:
the RE92 of the proper size are no doubt the best currently for optimum mileage. The re92 weigh in at only 13 lb a corner, and spinning up extra rotational mass is a very large factor in economy ... like a power to the square factor or somesuch. My Michelins are 15lbs, you can check out the specs of your brand on Tire rack to compare.
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Take heart on the numbers, though it is a bit of a challenge no doubt. Take a look at the values reported for cars for sale on ebay or other sales sites as well as the enthusiasts sites. There will be quite a range.
Most peoples fuel consumptions may be hitting the tank harder in coming months on account of not only the colder denser air to contend with; increasing winds and such; slippier roads etc, but also for many: an obligatory switch over to winter grips, ...maybe even running heavy steel rims to save the alloys during the interim of winter and the potholes of springtime, which is guaranteed to cost in the gasoline mileage dept..
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Best of luck and "it is what it is" once you've done all you can for your situation. Enjoy your Insight!
Poor highway mileage
