I know, I know, there are many threads about this in the archive. I searched. I just want some final answers and clarification about installing one.
I'm due for an oil change soon and want to do it before I hit the 7k-mile mark. Will do this instead of paying someone because essentially the job sounds as easy as changing oil on my Volvo 240 wagon. Now that is easy!
I plan to get a Fumoto oil drain valve with the nipple. Questions:
1. What is the consensus on the metal plate that is sandwiched between the oil plug and pan and is held in place by a screw? Keep it or remove it? I know by removing it I get extra threads to secure the Fumoto valve. Is there an advantage to keeping it? I'm just concerned about leaks or damaging the pan if I remove it.
2. What's the torque spec when tightening. Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary? I don't have a torque wrench but was gonna buy one at Harbor Freight, but the one they had was about 14" in length--too long to work under the car. Can I just go by feel?
3. Cheapest place to buy a Fumoto valve other than Ebay? I see them go for an average of around $30.
And I know, I can look this up, but I forgot what Fumoto model number for the gen1. Can anyone give that to me off the top of their head?
#1 - remove the small plate (phillips screw)
#2 - It comes with a thick white fiber washer, torque it down so that the valve is vertical, torque is irrelevant as it'll seat just fine and stay put. Using the SWAG system my guess would be in the area of @ 25ft lbs
#3 - Ordered mine direct with the coupon found on the net, not sure if it was the very cheapest way but happy I did
Fumoto makes life MUCH easier! I opted for the N (nippled) version and glad I did
#106N
funny you wrote this, I just ordered myself another 2 tuesday night, one for my MT and one for the HCH. Both #106N I bought them from Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™ I bought my first valve from another vendor who's prices went up a few dollars since then. I couldn't find a coupon but they have free shipping.
I installed one on my CVT and didn't remove the plate. i'll probably remove the plate on the MT if that's what people recommend. I do remember the valve body hitting something on the pan and not being able to turn it as much as i'd like. it doesn't leak so it's fine, just not completely vertical.
Tim
__________________ 2000 Silver MT #168, 119k miles, Grid charger, CARD switch, rad block, MIMA #174, Hurting (aka dead) IMA battery which I'm trying to revive.
80.1 Lmpg over 14,654 miles (4/23/12)
Bests trips: One way 58.2 miles-107.3 mpground trip 116.8 miles-98.5mpgTank: 90.75mpg
2001 Blue CVT "Retired" to the girlfriend - 191k miles my Lmpg 69.3 over 21k miles
Best trip: 56.6 miles-92.3 mpg, round trip 133.6miles-84.3mpg Tank: 623.6 miles 8.30 gallons=75.13mpg 2005MT HCH winter car-52.9Lmpg
F106N
Got mine online for a bit over $30 plus about $10 shipping.
Don't know how a torque wrench would fit. pic Likely same ft-lb as normal oil plug torque i figured. Some blue loctite went on the threads.
?What's the SWAG system?
Had to remove the small plate held on via the bolt for enough depth to safely install the fumoto valve. Only about three threads were grabbing otherwise.[as mine were partially stripped]
S.W.A.G. = scientific wild-ass guess
You can't torque it to any specific toque due to its shape, no need to. Teflon tape is not necessary nor is blue loctite - the fiber washer does a great job of both insuring it won't leak and won't back out.
Just another data point ... removed plate, SWAG tightened, no Loctite or teflon tape, the fiber washer has been drip-free since the spring of '09 when originally installed.
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