so I just pulled out my driver side window switch which struggles going up

[Need4Speed]

The weight of the window helps push it down when it is sticking, but going up means that the window mechanism needs to lift all of the weight to get it to go up.

If you still think it is the switch have someone lift the glass going up and see if it goes up easier.

[gjenn12]

About every three months I spray the channels with silicone spray and that is all it works

[juntjoo]

Originally Posted by Need4Speed

The weight of the window helps push it down when it is sticking, but going up means that the window mechanism needs to lift all of the weight to get it to go up.

If you still think it is the switch have someone lift the glass going up and see if it goes up easier.

I manually pulled it, but I don't know what for. I did a little check on the working passenger window to compare and I cant discern, blindly with just my hands, feel a difference. Both have a little slack in the cable, everything is snug and driver side looks as clean along the guides. There's resistance going up, and it intermittently varies between complete, seldom, but not even a *click* at times, to little most of the distance and time, but a bit more resistance at the top last 4 inches. I wouldn't be surprised if everything from the switch to the rails/guides is to blame. I'll use a tooth brush next. So far used silicone spray.

Btw, if all else fails, anyone happen to know which terminals to connect on that wire harness that plugs into the switch to test out the switch itself? This would be the right way to test it right? Thanks for your replies.

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[aisbell]

Originally Posted by juntjoo

Are you talking about the cable running vertically in the center of the door that feels like it's going around a pulley at the bottom?

No. I was writing about the rear channel that the window glass travels in as it moves up and down.

[freezin4]

Juntjoo,

I sent you a PM.

[richii33]

But it only struggles going up

[juntjoo]

So guided by the folder of pdf's for this car I obtained from this forum, I went poking into the switch per instructions from "power_windows.pdf" and it states to connect a bunch of terminals, the female ones on the "connector", attached to the wires, "4 & 5 and 6 & 14" but silly me read it backwards and connected terminals 2 & 3 and it blew put the dash lights, the WHOLE display, not just the individual lights, but in file "gauges.pdf" it seems to only diagnose each light in the dash separately, but anyway, so in one diagram I found this "no.15" fuse under the dash, incidentally of which mine is missing the cover so I had to just check all #10 fuses, but they all looked good.

So that's where I am. Anyone generous enough to lend a hand in this sticky situation I've created I thank you.

[Willie Williford]

There is no "cover" on the fuses.
The indicator for what each fuse goes to is located on the back of the pull out compartment on the left side of the dash. It can be removed by gently "squeezing" the vertical sides in.

HTH
Willie

[juntjoo]

Thanks Willie. Not at car at the moment but until we reunite, anyone know how many volts needed to power window? Manual didn't say. Just to "apply power"

When I blew whatever fuse the windows were down so before too long tonight I hope I can at least get windows back up. I tried with a 6 volt battery but no go and I don't want to try 12 until I know it's safe. And I think I did it right according to the pdf.

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[Willie Williford]

At least 10.8V and probably 5 amp. I would have to look it up.
I'm guessing but probably close on the amperage.?

Willie