Okay, found the fuse I blew. Phew! Now I can proceed to test this switch. If I can figure out how to power the window without the switch I'll be able to narrow it down a bit...
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At least 10.8V and probably 5 amp. I would have to look it up.
I'm guessing but probably close on the amperage.?
Willie
Hmm, well maybe if I can figure out this electronic diagram I can hook up the red on the connector to the red on the terminal directly to the window motor, assuming the correct voltage is applied to that connector before the switch.. eh? I'll keep reading...
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Update: well I just tested the voltage at the connector to the window motor, which went through the switch. Checked it in both directions and both ways registered 11v, even on the upwards. Hmm... Is that sufficient enough to conclude the switch is fine? I shall now attempt to apply 11v to window motor directly to further test. Btw, my closest method would be the battery straight 12v. Is that safe?
Update: did it. Window performs same. So back to window and window motor themselves. Will examine motor out of door next. Incidentally, I just caused a short, unless it want my fault and it was about to happen anyway, somewhere between the connector at the switch to the battery. So the saga grows...
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There is no "cover" on the fuses.
The indicator for what each fuse goes to is located on the back of the pull out compartment on the left side of the dash. It can be removed by gently "squeezing" the vertical sides in.
HTH
Willie
Willie, what is this pull out compartment you're referring to? Perhaps mine is missing although inside my car is pretty naked from tearing it apart to clean and fix things so I was thinking I may have already taken this part off but I haven't found any piece with any fuse charts on it. or if anyone else can help I'd appreciate it.
Update: nevermind. Got it. That was a tricky one. That little compartment that I stick my quarters and pens in
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I did. No help. Seems to work a bit better when cold so Im thinking it might be the motor. I will be taking it out next to see if it behaves the same outside of the door. Tho that might not be easy. I'll see. Thanks
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My neighbor/friend had a window that was totally frozen. He pulled the motor, cleaned the stators(?), re-greased the motor, and it has worked like new ever since.
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Re: so I just pulled out my driver side window switch which struggles going up
Well before I go pulling the motor apart, anyone know what this means?
After struggling going up it eventually stops completely and after about 30 secs there is a little click and it tries again albeit slowly still. Isn't that like a circuit breaker or something? If so,
would that be in the window motor or elsewhere?
Also, if its in the motor would it mean the motor is faulty, or just need a cleaning as mentioned above, or that something else is impeding it like rubber guides particularly the rear one?
I should point out with both good and bad windows unbolted I manually tested their ability to slide up and down and they felt similar and without the window in, the motor operates flawlessly. I even cleaned the tracks with Q-Tips and some strong stuff.
Thanks again for your responses. I think next I might take that motor out...
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