Want to install clutch switch/Assist disable?

[Willie Williford]

Wait till you retrain yourself on your driving habits after the install. You will wonder why you didn't install it earlier.

Willie

[freezin4]

Originally Posted by theaveng

Better to have some assist than none.

You would retain assist function. But you could turn it off at will in those instances when the computer senses power demand and wants to provide the assist, but you know you would be fine without it. Like on a long, flat highway stretch when you want to accelerate just slightly. No need for the over-aggressive, energy wasting (in this case) assist to kick in.

No doubt, the lack of power (without the assist mode) renders the car dangerous in certain situations. Like entering a freeway at an incline. Kind of like an early VW Beetle or Bus with a 30 Hp engine.

[Willie Williford]

That's why they have transmissions, down shift and let her go. Sacrifice mileage for safety once in a while.

Willie

[theaveng]

I've learned to shift so the RPM always stays above 2000, similar to how the CVT works when accelerating. That way the power comes from the gasoline rather than the electric & the battery stays near-full. Today was the first day I didn't have to deal with battery issues.

This is different from my interstate driving where I accelerate 1st, 2nd, and then 5th. That method always worked okay when I was mainly driving I-95, but drains the battery fast in my new commute (towns with redlights).

[theaveng]

Originally Posted by Willie Williford

Wait till you retrain yourself on your driving habits after the install. You will wonder why you didn't install it earlier.

What changes in style?

My recent driving over mountains drained the battery to 1 bar and no assist, The engine was gutless and the computer told me to downshift from 5th to 4th. Then 4th to 3rd! (Never saw that happen.) Apparently the computer is programmed to drain the battery to empty before it uses the downshift light.

[Willie Williford]

Battery useage is mainly determined by the "load" on the engine.
Lower rpm, more throttle opening = greater load.
My driving dictates keeping the rpm under most circumstance in the 2500-3200 range. The timing under most incidents doesn't really advance enough for good "power" until around 3200 rpm.
Assist usually kicks in around 4" of vacumn.

With the "turbo" not being used, I can drain the battery down to where it kicks in the
forced charge" then give it a little "turbo" and drain the battery down further.
Anytime you get the "down shift light" you are really lugging the engine.
(My opinion)

Willie

[MN Driver]

The downshift light comes on if you have heavy throttle and the speed hasn't risen for 5 seconds or so. Doesn't matter what the state of the battery is, although usually with assist it can usually continue to accelerate with moderate/heavy throttle. I used to get it driving to work every day when I had the clutch switch engaged. I have since just climbed the hill in 5th gear at 80-85% load(45-50mpg) and let the speed drop a little and the gas mileage was much better and I also wasn't losing battery either. Oddly enough the difference in speed when reaching the top of the hill at 35mpg or 50mpg was less than I would have thought. If I wanted the speed, a downshift to put it the engine at an efficient load level would probably be better than mashing the pedal in 5th.

I usually downshift to 3rd during cross country trips and climb at 90% load(with about 1/2 assist gauge) or a hair under that load when I encounter hills, then back to 5th gear once I've reached the speed I want to travel and use 50mpg until I can either lean-burn or I need to make another 3rd gear run. Seemed to be the best way to balance desired speed and MPG without draining the pack too much. I get better MPG and haven't bothered with the clutch switch in 1.5 years. The only thing I miss about not having it anymore is that I am not able to cycle the pack at will as easily, takes more work.