non-grid charging results 2000 insight

[oregon2000]

I just wanted to get some new information out to anyone that is experiencing battery problems. I have been told that the car is not able to charge the battery efficiently and that the only way you can recondition a battery is grid charging. I have checked with Honda and my car has not had a battery replacement with them. I got my car with 254,000 miles on it I had battery issues at about 257,000 mi. I got the dreaded IMA light with the code battery ballance problem. My problem was that I was not able to figure out how to drive the car to get a good discharge from the battery... I am now noticing extremely good results and the key is getting a good discharge before rev/drive charging. My battery was so bad that it should of been replaced it is now strong. I am letting other owners know that if you are having battery issues send me an email and let me know I think I can give you some helpful advice to get you back on the road.

[RedJellyBean]

Making this thread was pointless because you didn't actually reveal what your methods are. How about you post that technique here without having an e-mail sent to you first?

[Eli]

This is the 2nd time he's posted stuff like this.

I can guarantee that your battery is not "strong". You've simply learned the limits of your battery and have adjusted your driving to suite.

Still waiting for you to stop by so you can feel what a truly strong battery feels like.

[rickyzambro]

I would like to stop by and see what a truly powerful battery is like.... Haha.

Sent from my EVO using AutoGuide.Com Free App

[Eli]

Come on over! We're just a hop, skip, jump and a couple of tanks of gas away.

[retepsnikrep]

I have sent a PM to Oregon 2000 requesting further info or clarification of his intentions.

[oregon2000]

Based on feedback from other members who have indicated that my battery is not stronger. I want to monitor the battery's performance some more. I will mention that recently I have been able to get the last bar on the gauge and that the battery maintains a high charge even after aggressive assists that would have caused the IMA light. I believe the cleanning of the ground and positive posts on the 12volt battery in the engine compartment as well as the cleaning of the area of the negative to the car leading to the negative connection or post of the 12volt battery has enhanced the cars charging as is reflected on the gauge while driving and rev charging. Maybe this information will be confirmed by others so it will become more believeable for everyone...

[eal]

Originally Posted by oregon2000

Based on feedback from other members who have indicated that my battery is not stronger.

That's not what they said.

I want to monitor the battery's performance some more. I will mention that recently I have been able to get the last bar on the gauge and that the battery maintains a high charge even after aggressive assists that would have caused the IMA light.

What is the gauge measuring?

I believe the cleanning of the ground and positive posts on the 12volt battery in the engine compartment as well as the cleaning of the area of the negative to the car leading to the negative connection or post of the 12volt battery has enhanced the cars charging as is reflected on the gauge while driving and rev charging. Maybe this information will be confirmed by others so it will become more believeable for everyone...

It would be "more believable" if you demonstrated that you knew what you were talking about. Last time it was explained to you what you were doing.

Eli's apparently got the knowledge, experience, and equipment to demonstrate what you are doing (and aren't). I don't know him personally, but he sure seems to _understand_ what he's doing.

sharing first gen/battery info


It's great you've figured out how to keep the battery somewhat charged, but it would appear that it's hardly a economical method. Nor is it "fixing" the problem that you think it is.

I'm getting ~62 MPG with a (very iffy pack now that I've got a grid charger - and I'm missing some aerodynamic parts, and the wrong tires (Michelin 175/65R14). I was getting 52ish on gas-only, when I had the charger on order.

So if your method is getting 50 - it's worse than if you disconnected the battery (presuming you've got the right tires, inflated correctly, and the right aerodynamic parts.)

[retepsnikrep]

oregon2000 has replied to me via PM.

Ok I will try this again... I am throwing out information that has proved sucessful for me. I believe it would be extremely difficult to explain how to drive to get the results I have received which are by the way not what other members are saying I should be getting... My battery is stronger than it was before I began. Recently I gave a valuable tip re: making sure the battery cables are clean. The reason I was asking for people to contact me by email was I was getting feedback from members that were telling me that I was not getting the results that I was getting... So at this point I am going to use this site for gathering information and keep my techniques to myself, and I'm not interested in charging for giving advise.

Sadly the detailed technique will remain a mystery for now.

Reading between the lines the crux of it was good connections in eng compartment and a good discharge of the battery followed by rev charging which would equate to cycling the battery to a degree which might recover some capacity.

[Eli]

Betcha I could get his car to throw an IMA light in 15 minutes or less if it's thrown them before.