Depending how hot you want it you could shroud in the area around the cat or have a pipe setup to draw air from closer to the heat get faster initiation of LB imo. Maximum desired is about 110F from earlier reports; 120F and a lopey idle is noted from personal experience. Once underway the air circulation, coming mostly from underneath will dissipate the waste heat of the cat quite a bit. About 10-15 Celsius degrees higher IAT temperatures werre expereienced over ambient temps when traveling at 80 - 50 kph with my present setup, on trips of around 15 minutes max usually.
I was thinking about putting some kind of shroud over the area -- maybe just around the heater hoses and the inlet would do it?. But yeah, a 5 minute warm air intake mod and free, and completely reversible in a few minutes, can't really beat that... I would have liked to have kept the resonance chamber in the loop, but I'm too unmotivated to search for a hose or do some other re-route, or something that looks ghetto. I'll try this for a while and see how it goes. It could be my imagination, now that I know what the resonance chamber is supposed to do, but the car does seem perhaps a smidge weaker at low rpms...
I was thinking about putting some kind of shroud over the area -- maybe just around the heater hoses and the inlet would do it?. But yeah, a 5 minute warm air intake mod and free, and completely reversible in a few minutes, can't really beat that... I would have liked to have kept the resonance chamber in the loop, but I'm too unmotivated to search for a hose or do some other re-route, or something that looks ghetto. I'll try this for a while and see how it goes. It could be my imagination, now that I know what the resonance chamber is supposed to do, but the car does seem perhaps a smidge weaker at low rpms...
Interesting. In not so many details, that's what I was thinking, asking about, in an earlier post...
Quote:
Originally Posted by eq1
....who knows whether the stock snorkel does something for smooth intake air flow?, and you can easily keep the resonance chamber in the loop, no change. I was thinking a loose air duct around the end might be good - wouldn't it be as close to stock as possible just with warmer air? It might keep the air flow at the end of the snorkel as similar to stock as possible...
Quick update:
I removed my quick warm air intake mod and put everything back to normal, to compare. Having done that I'm not convinced the gains were anything worthwhile. Although it did warm the air about 20-30 degrees F above normal, I can't say for sure whether it increased lean burn (frequency or duration). Plus, I'm pretty sure it made the car run rougher and weaker at low rpms, like between 1000-1700; stock it feels noticeably smoother and more powerful... Also, earlier I had said that the air/fuel ratio seemed to be higher, by about a point or 2, but that doesn't appear to be the case, at least, not due to the warm air mod. Rather, I had swapped the O2 sensor for another one around the same time I did the second version of this mod, so it's probably just the different O2 sensor...
In any event, a duct around the stock inlet, ported to the back of the engine, near cat, would probably be the way to go, rather than this quick mod... I don't know if ducting the resonance chamber into the quick mod would help, it might. Though the different length of ducting required might alter the impact of the resonance chamber...
Hi this mod I did a few years ago. Go half way down the page, and hit on the pics titled heat1, heat2, etc. I did this with 2" thin wall tubing, a dremel tool, a drill, and a pop rivet gun. Simple. It yeilded the hotest temps. Even in 20 degree winter weather, I could still pull in temps of 90 degrees! My car loved it! When it would warm up a little (50's or so,) I would just pull the clamp off, and let the end of the hose hang right by the cat. That way, I was still getting warm air in, but not 120-140 degree air (too hot.) I found ideally 90-100 degree air works the best for me....
I would like to fabricate a 3-4" cube block out of aluminum that I could mount in the engine compartment, and have 2" holes in T fashion bored thru it. Then use a butterfly (like in a carbuerator,) with a manual choke cable/casing and lever, running up thru the firewall, and dash mounted. With a simple push or pull while driving and monitoring my scan guage 2, I could open or close the butterfly as much as desired, and be able to fine tune my intake air temps on the fly! The project is on my list for this winter. Once perfected for a simple bolt in, I may put complete bolt on kits together for sale (depending on how cost effective it ends up being!) This could probably be made out of 2" stainless steel tubing with bolt in mounting tabs for less money....hmmmm....I'll have to get to work on that.....
Your first post's mod is basically what my 'quick' mod did; I just used the stock pieces. The problem was that it seemed to reduce low rpm power and run a tad rougher. Another thread shows that the resonance chamber increases low rpm power - I linked to it further up. So, whatever I do, it will have to tie in the stock resonance chamber. I'd likely just get a big duct and go from the stock inlet back to the cat, if I do anything. it doesn't get very cold in the pacific northwest, unlike Buffalo - so it's not that big a deal. I like the adjustable idea though...
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