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Old 11-29-2012, 12:02 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need4Speed View Post
Hey, the drilled and slotted rotors are well worth it, think of the weight savings! ......maybe I should get out the drill......
You would save a lot more weight by:
- throwing out the spare
- only filling the tank half full
- removing the carpet & storage bin
- going on a diet until you have BMI ==19. For some of us that's 100 pounds reduction right there! LOL.
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:47 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Holy - - - -! Would you put an "after" picture on when you get all that done? I'd like to see the finished product. I thought I had patience but you got me beat.
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Old 12-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Default How do I get these studs out?

So, I need to remove the first cat. I've got to drill out the bolts that connect it to the down pipe so I can get rid of the vise grips (see earlier post). The problem is that the nuts and studs that connect the cat to the manifold/engine block(?) are completely rusted (see pics). I've already ordered new nuts and studs. How do I get those rusted nuts and studs off without breaking them off in the manifold/block? I haven't touched them yet, but it is pretty clear that a wrench won't be able to grab those nuts due to the rust.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Catalytic Converter Bolts001.jpg (54.9 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg Catalytic Converter Bolts002.jpg (48.9 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg Catalytic Converter Bolts003.jpg (34.7 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg Catalytic Converter Bolts004.jpg (39.2 KB, 38 views)
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:15 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Spray with "rust buster" and let sit for 12 Hrs.
You might have to use the free vise grips on the nuts.
If you need a 1st. CAT, I have one.

HTH
Willie
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:03 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie Williford View Post
Spray with "rust buster" and let sit for 12 Hrs.
You might have to use the free vise grips on the nuts.
If you need a 1st. CAT, I have one.

HTH
Willie
Thanks,
I just picked up a can of PB Blaster. Probably should have bought a whole case...haha. I just wish there was a better way to get those studs out. Correct me if I'm wrong but if I break those studs off I'm completely screwed?

Mitch
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:22 PM   #36 (permalink)
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If they break (the studs), they will probably break flush with the CAT plate. You might have enough stud to clamp on to with the vise grips. It's a steel stud into alum. (Different metals) So can't say for sure. Heat on the alum. while unscrewing might help. (Expansion factor)
It'a all a crap shoot, but so is life.

HTH
Willie
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:04 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Soak it with the penatrant but you will probably need to hit it with heat from a torch. Get that nut nice and hot to break up the grip that the rust has on it. Also you can try a nut splitter, you can pick one up from any Autozone or car parts place.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:21 PM   #38 (permalink)
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[edit: missed seeing gllbertguy's suggestion prior to this posting: nut splitter]

2 PC Nut Bolt Splitter Buster Breaker Removal Tool Kit | eBay

I used one same as one of those shown above in the ebay picture of the item to literally spit the nut by crushing down sideways on it [destructively] so it could be removed from the studs. It worked well and with a little bit additional of chisel and hammer work to spread the break wider open further so the nuts first wiggled loose and then literally fell off.
_______________

Worst case for broken studs: I had a couple steel studs break off over time in the aluminum head of an old car: one stud where there was enough metal showing was removed by smacking the edge nub remaining around, as suggested above, using a small chisel and hammer. It worked ok once using that method but was not so lucky on a second broken stud where a hole had to be drilled to fit an 'easy out' inserted/tapped into the drilled bolt. [fwiw: I found use of a small mirror useful in lining it up straight as possible to the hole when starting drilling.] I used initially a drill bit that fit the hole pretty closely to get a center started, then once a drill point was started with the bigger drill bit, a smaller drill bit was used to make the hole for the easy-out tool so to not drill into the threads. Let's hope it doesn't have to go to that point!
Best of luck!
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Last edited by AbCaRed00; 12-02-2012 at 10:26 PM. Reason: missed seeing post immediately above on nut splitter./duplication
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:52 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Thanks Guys,
Good thoughts. I hadn't heard of nut splitters. I may just start off with a torch around the manifold/block holes and my newly rescued vise grips and see if I can get the stud/bolt out as a unit. If those studs break I'm not sure how I get my drill in there. But I guess we'll cross that bridge when/if we get there. Wish me luck. I'll keep you updated.

-Mitch
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:21 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Default Trip Buttons Done!

Since Majestic Honda dropped the ball (two weeks to get a motor mount...really?) I took the opportunity to knock out some of the less pressing repairs. Thanks to this wonderful forum I was able to order perfect replacement buttons from Digikey with minimal effort (see pics). The replacement was quick and easy. While I had the gauge cluster out I went ahead and thoroughly cleaned the cluster and the vents. Trip buttons are working great now. It almost feels like a new car.
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File Type: jpg Trip Buttons002.jpg (34.4 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg Trip Buttons003.jpg (55.9 KB, 35 views)
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