Two miles after getting a set of new Bridgestones...
I wound up with two codes. P1449 and P0420.
For the past year I've only driven the Insight about once to twice a week. However the IMA battery has rarely gone below two bars from full for that entire time. I tend to be a conservative driver when I use the Insight, and there are plenty of hills where the battery unit has the opportunity to charge and discharge.
Right now the battery is showing one less bar from full and of course, the check engine and IMA light are on. I have zero plans to get rid of it. The Insight is used almost always for in town driving with speeds that rarely go beyond 50 mph.
I have every intention to keep it. Even without the IMA assist I am getting close to the same mileage with the sole exception being the need to goose the engine a bit for acceleration from a stop. I have a spare engine and cat as well.
I have two questions....
1) What should I do to fix it right.
2) If it's not worth putting in yet another battery (this would be the third) is it better to just drive it as is or remove a few things?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. All the best!
Im not an IMA expert like some on here, but try for laughs pulling the 12v pos off or the #18 under dash fuse for 10sec to reset the system. Personally i think the sitting, and short drives are whats doing it. I think a great investment (and much cheaper) would be to get a grid charger to balance your pack. Mike d, Eli (I think) sells them (and others Im sure).
I only drive my Insight once or twice a week, and was getting P1449 all the time. Since installing the calpod clutch switch, I get recals after the car sits, but I can prevent it throwng codes indefinately. Once it recals and I get back up to full bars, I can drive to vegas and back with no issues. But if it sits for 4 days, it'll recal. Kinda like a disease you know you have, but you can control.
Replacing your tires has nothing to do with your codes at first glance. Some people do report lowered fuel economy for the first few thousand miles with new tires, so its possible the extra drag ultimately triggered the IMA light. But this is really unimportant considering the topic at hand.
First and foremost, you need a grid charger. Your usage pattern is the #1 cause of battery failure, the 2nd being heat and 3rd age.
Another thing to understand is that Honda batteries are not brand new, they are refurbished - rebuilt. This is the reason for their less than optimal lifespan. Indeed, they typically only last 2-5 years, while the batteries lasted 6-7 years on average when new.
To fix it right, you need a grid charger and a new battery. Feel free to give us a call, we'd be happy to discuss your options.
__________________
Bumblebee Batteries, LLC - Helping your hybrid get from point A to point Bee!
The grid charger will extend the life awhile, but a P1449 means the battery is on life support. To fix it right, you need a new battery.
Regular grid charging will keep it going nearly indefinitely, though, but you may end up charging it every few days. So it depends on your tolerance level.
My battery is in intensive care. When it first starting throwing P1449 cards, a grid charger would last it as much as 1500 miles before it threw another code. Over time, that dropped to 1000, then 700, then 400, and now I can barely go 200 miles before I get a P1449 code again.
My car starting throwing P1447 codes at 217K miles, which prompted me to get the grid charger. It started throwing P1449 codes at ~249K. I'm currently at 269K, so you can nurse it along for quite some time.
It is annoying, but I prefer to grid charge 2-3 times per week vs spending $2K for a new battery. If things get much worse, though, I'll finally bite the bullet. I'll probably replace it some time next Spring as I dread to think how my battery will be during next summer's heat.
The grid charger will extend the life awhile, but a P1449 means the battery is on life support. To fix it right, you need a new battery.
Regular grid charging will keep it going nearly indefinitely, though, but you may end up charging it every few days. So it depends on your tolerance level.
My battery is in intensive care. When it first starting throwing P1449 cards, a grid charger would last it as much as 1500 miles before it threw another code. Over time, that dropped to 1000, then 700, then 400, and now I can barely go 200 miles before I get a P1449 code again.
My car starting throwing P1447 codes at 217K miles, which prompted me to get the grid charger. It started throwing P1449 codes at ~249K. I'm currently at 269K, so you can nurse it along for quite some time.
It is annoying, but I prefer to grid charge 2-3 times per week vs spending $2K for a new battery. If things get much worse, though, I'll finally bite the bullet. I'll probably replace it some time next Spring as I dread to think how my battery will be during next summer's heat.
Varak,
I can't tell from your signature. Do you have MIMA or another way to fully cycle the battery?
I have found from cycling mine, and taking it apart and cycling individual sticks that any type of full cycling really improves things.
I think a great investment (and much cheaper) would be to get a grid charger to balance your pack. Mike d, Eli (I think) sells them (and others Im sure).
How much money?
__________________
OWN: 61mpg Insight (greenercars.org score: 57)
both blue and silver,
and a 45mpg BeetleTDI (score: 47).
If you want to give it a go, you can build one for around £100. I'm no electronics engineer, but managed it.
Plenty of build threads on here, and Mike has very generously made plans for a simple charger available online.
__________________
Ocean '00 MT
Continental Eco Contact 5s in 185/60/14.
Warm air mod
Grill block
Grid Charger with timer
OBDII C&C gauge
12v solar charger
IMA solar charger
6.5in touchscreen HU
5000k HIDs
It looks like I am going to be purchasing a grid charger. The Insight has been only driven about 3k to 5k over the past year and despite the lack of drawdown, it may be time to invest in a grid charger.
I bought the vehicle about four years ago and I have rhapsodized in length about it's unique qualities.
When I find something I truly love I keep it as long as humanly possible. But with that, I have to invest in durability.
So I guess the two questions I have to ask the folks in this community are...
1) What grid charger will likely be the most durable and effective one to purchase?
and...
2) Is there anything else that can be done to make the IMA battery last?
It was all my fault that the IMA has become imbalanced, and I obviously have to pay the penance by investing in this vehicle for the long haul. I have a 29 year old Mercedes as well so I'm used to the drill.
Any ideas, thoughts or links would be very welcome. All the best!
1) What grid charger will likely be the most durable and effective one to purchase?
and...
2) Is there anything else that can be done to make the IMA battery last?
Any ideas, thoughts or links would be very welcome. All the best!
1.) I'm no expert either, but I refer to Mike D's charger as the "Cadillac" of chargers. It is programmable, safe, and he stands by his product. His system has two temp sensors to control the battery cooling fan. He has the system which can drain to empty, then charge the battery back up which is the way to rebalance. Unsure about the others. I purchased the harness from him, and I can tell you it's a quality job.
2.) Tint the windows. Make sure the ventilation pathways are unobstructed. Maybe upgrade the IMA cooling fan? Park in shade in the summer; garage in winter.
HTH
__________________ Silver 2001 Insight 5spd - #0160
264+K miles
(Has some bruises, needs some stuff...but I still love it.) Citrus w/ A/C - #2083
270+K miles
(Still needs some stuff...but I already love it.)
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