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Old 03-20-2017, 02:51 PM   #2221 (permalink)
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I can't rethread my hydraulic line into the new clutch slave cylinder. What the eff.. I hate working on cars
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:17 PM   #2222 (permalink)
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Get the cylinder and line as loose as possible so you can wiggle them around. The fitting needs to be very straight. Once you get it started you can tighten things back up.

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Old 03-20-2017, 05:40 PM   #2223 (permalink)
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Get the cylinder and line as loose as possible so you can wiggle them around. The fitting needs to be very straight. Once you get it started you can tighten things back up.

Sam
I'm trying, god am I trying.

If anyone here ever thinks they're an inept mechanic, remember me struggling for like 5 hours trying to do this dumb simple thing. Good lord

edit: I finally got it. I think I was so concerned about cross threading I never bothered to try the wrench. It didn't seem to want to screw on with fingers but went on easily with the wrench. Now on to the master cylinder...

Last edited by monstor; 03-20-2017 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:48 PM   #2224 (permalink)
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Great! I'm glad you finally got it. I've had the same experience in the past, and now that you mention it, I remember getting it lined up with my fingers and gently turning it with a wrench. Cross threading it would ruin your whole day!

Sam
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:23 PM   #2225 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Maybe a stupid question but I've never seen it mentioned anywhere,

Can the Insight hood prop up to a straight 90 degree angle like lots of other Honda cars can?
If you never figured it out, yes it can. It's not quite 90*, but pretty close. You have to take the support arm (?) out of the hole on the left and stick it in a hole that's on the right side in what would be about the same spot, there's even a notched spot on the hood for it. I always support my hood this way, it's way too hard to work on the car with it "normal".
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I can't rethread my hydraulic line into the new clutch slave cylinder. What the eff.. I hate working on cars
Don't feel bad, I had the hardest time getting that right. I probably tried for about 3 hours before getting it. I feel like it'd be a ton easier now that I've had lots more experience wrenching, but while doing it over a year ago I was swearing that I never wanted to touch a car again.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:56 PM   #2226 (permalink)
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Insurance and registration for the citrus. Inspection is next, then finally it's on the road.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:49 AM   #2227 (permalink)
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I restored a threaded hole to the mount bracket for the left rear fastener for plastic underbody panel. And so am now able to hold up the rear outer corner of the left rear underbody panel. There's a little wheel strake there, if that's the right term for it.

IIRC, there are four M6 screws for each panel, plus a bunch of plastic push fasteners. The screws like to rust into their holes. Steel screw in aluminum threaded tube = nasty corrosion. Screw head twisted off, screw was corroded into aluminum threaded sleeve on back side of bracket.

This was the rear outer mount point on driver's side rear plastic panel. It goes into a bracket that feels springy. Turned out the bracket is held in with ONE bolt. Removed bracket. Found threaded sleeve on back side, to hold the panel mounting screw. Dremel + cutoff wheel removed a lip of the sleeve and then sleeve came out.

I epoxied a T-nut onto back side of the bracket, restoring the threaded sleeve right where it's supposed to be. I used JB-Quick. Tension when in use, is mostly in the correct direction, pulling the nut against the bracket - so it's not trying to come apart constantly. Dremel ground the plating off the nut's mating surface, and also smoothed the high spots off the bracket surface where the nut goes.

threaded t-nut with little holes for brads, or in my case, gooped epoxy The nut I got was a bit longer than this one but I'm sure either length would work.

Last edited by brucepick; 03-21-2017 at 11:53 AM.
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