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Old 05-25-2009, 12:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How much to pay for your 2010 Insight

I'm seeing a ton of posts from people here about the prices they paid. There's a several thousand dollar margin between what people are paying for the exact same model (nonetheless - everyone "got a deal" ). Thought it was worth while to post some information on pricing for our future Insight owner brethren.

First, some terms to be familiar with:
MSRP = Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price. WAY too high, don't pay this!
Invoice = What the dealer paid for the car. Still too high! See "dealer holdback" for more info.
Destination Fee = What the manufacturer charges the dealer to get the car to the lot. This is the only *real* honest to goodness fee, set by the manufacturer.
Dealer Holdback = AFTER a car is sold, the manufacturer (Honda) gives more money to the dealer. Why? So the dealer can say "We paid $X for the car, couldn't possibly charge less than that or we lose money!", when they actually make several hundred dollars. This comes as a percentage of MSRP. For Honda Insight, reported value is 2%. (It was 3% when the car was first released, but 2% is Honda's normal rate.)
Documentation Fee = A garbage charge dealers made up to get more money. Officially - they have to keep records for some number of years, and they want to charge you hundreds of dollars for that. Unofficially - keeping those records costs them pennies, this is a total sham!
Advertisement Fee = A garbage charge dealers made up to get more money. I've had people try to pull this one on me - charging me a fee for their advertising. Sheesh!
Ambiguously Named Fee You've Never Heard Of Before = Probably made up by the dealer to take more money from your pockets!
Tax = Government tax. No avoiding or haggling these!
Title = Government fees. No avoiding or haggling these! Costs a few bucks extra if you need new plates.
Rebates = Manufacturer rebates will eventually be issued, which essentially cuts the cost of the car. They'll do this shortly before the 2011 models come out most likely, or if they face stiff competition from others.
True Dealer Cost = Invoice Price + Destination Fee - Dealer Holdback. It's that easy.
OTD Price = Out-the-door price. The absolute final value you will pay. This is Car Price + Tax + Title/State Fees.
Margin = Money the dealer makes on a car sale.


For pricing on the 2010 Honda Insight models, see these links:
LX - Edmunds.com - 2010 Honda Insight Car Pricing Guide
EX - Edmunds.com - 2010 Honda Insight Car Pricing Guide
EXN - Edmunds.com - 2010 Honda Insight Car Pricing Guide


CURRENT VALUES AS OF 11/24/2009:
Code:
Model                       LX         EX         EX+N
MSRP                        $19,800    $21,300    $23,100  (Number obtained from Edmunds.com)
Invoice                     $18,688    $20,098    $21,790  (Number obtained from Edmunds.com)
Destination                 $670       $670       $670     (Number obtained from Edmunds.com, appears to be constant, even in Alaska/Hawaii)
Holdback                    $396       $426       $462     (This is MSRP * 0.02)
True Invoice                $18,962    $20,342    $21,998  (This is Invoice + Destination - Holdback)
                                                         
True Invoice + Tax@4%       $19,720    $21,155    $22,877  (True Invoice * 1.04)
True Invoice + Tax@5%       $19,910    $21,359    $23,097  (True Invoice * 1.05)
True Invoice + Tax@6%       $20,099    $21,562    $23,317  (True Invoice * 1.06)
True Invoice + Tax@7%       $20,289    $21,765    $23,537  (True Invoice * 1.07)
True Invoice + Tax@8%       $20,478    $21,969    $23,757  (True Invoice * 1.08)
True Invoice + Tax@9%       $20,668    $22,172    $23,977  (True Invoice * 1.09)
True Invoice + Tax@10%      $20,858    $22,376    $24,197  (True Invoice * 1.10)

State Fees                  ~$104      ~$104      ~$104    (This is what it is in Massachusetts, your state will vary)

When you buy a car, you pay the manufacturer (Honda), the state (Massachusetts, etc), and the dealer (Joe's Hondas). You can't negotiate with the manufacturer or the state, so your only opportunity to save is to cut the dealers margin as much as possible. Your goal should thus be as close to True Invoice + Tax + State Fees as possible.

For example, my personal experience:
Honda Insight EX with 5% Massachusetts sales tax: $21,135 (note, Honda had 3% holdback originally, now it's 2%, this is why the number is different from above)
State Fees: $104
Minimum price a dealer would possibly accept: $21,239
My Offer: $21,400 OTD, inclusive of ALL taxes and fees (which is a $161 margin for the dealer - if you're not in a rush, try pushing this $50-100 lower!)

Here's the steps that I follow which have repeatedly given me success:
(1) Test drive the vehicle at any dealer to make sure you like it. Walk away - DO NOT negotiate or talk prices with them!!!
(2) Do the math as described above!
(3) Dig up some cash, or arrange your own financing. Do NOT use the dealer's financing! (I'm not an expert on financing, but plenty of guides on the Internet on this.)
(4) Send an e-mail to every Honda dealer within 50 miles. Do NOT give them your phone number, you don't want these people calling you. The e-mail should go something like this:
Quote:
I am looking for a new 2010 Honda Insight EX, exterior color COLOR/COLOR/COLOR, interior COLOR. The price I am willing to pay is $YOUR_PRICE_HERE OTD, all tax/tags/fees included. I have my own plates that I will transfer. Will play cash, no financing.

If this deal is acceptable, please let me know, I will purchase this week. Please contact me by e-mail at YOUR_ADDRESS_HERE. No counter-offers, please.

Thanks,
YOUR_NAME
(5) Wait for responses! Usually you'll get one or two dealers willing to accept your offer, a few that won't respond, and a few that will try to negotiate. DO NOT NEGOTIATE! You've done your math, you know what the car should cost, and you're willing to give a real easy sale to anyone who just says "yes" - some dealers will get this, some won't.
(6) When you get an affirmative, double-confirm ALL numbers, models, colors before going to the dealer. Print out the agreement and all specs so nobody trys to pull a fast one on you.
(7) Go buy your car! You'll find when you walk into a dealer having already negotiated all the numbers, the whole process is a smooth and friendly business transaction.


Anyway - I hope this formula and this math is helpful to somebody and gets you a good deal. Good luck!

Last edited by psyci; 12-22-2009 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Updating holdback information
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Old 05-25-2009, 12:45 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Tips from other forum users

Here's some tips from others:
  • Be sure you're using an email address for the internet department rather than the general sales department. Normally if you get the email address from the dealer website, it will go to the internet department. If in doubt, call the receptionist to verify. Avoid general sales staff for negotiations. (thanks stevenvillatoro!)
  • Refuse any add-on equipment they want to add to the car, especially retarded things like window etching and paint guards. (thanks adric22!)
  • Refuse any extended warranties no matter how good they sound, they are ALL a scam and the only reason the dealer wants to sell them so bad is they make a ton of money on it. (thanks adric22!)

Here's some real life results posted by people in this thread:
  • EX $20,281 + tax + title (psyci)
  • EX $20,300 + tax + title (CobaltDragon)
  • EX+N $21998 + tax + title (Cassius)
  • EX $20,470 + tax + title (Piano Tuner)

Last edited by psyci; 07-21-2009 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 05-25-2009, 08:43 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice post. Will save it for future usage

...And I got robbed by few hundreds dollars on my I2
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Old 05-25-2009, 10:31 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The negotiating method of 'psyci' is right-on, and is the simplest way to assure you'll get a great deal. Just a couple of additional thoughts, in no corresponding order:

A. Be sure you're using an email address for the internet department rather than the general sales department. Normally if you get the email address from the dealer website, it will go to the internet department. If in doubt, call the receptionist to verify. Avoid general sales staff for negotiations.

B. I like to expand my search to 100 miles or more, and include small rural dealers as well as other metro areas for hard-to-find models. It's just like fishing. I often include 12 or MANY MORE dealers in my search, since email blasts require virtually no effort other than to research the email addresses.

C. Don't forget to BCC any email that will go to multiple dealers, just to be tasteful. The people who receive these emails DO appreciate courtesy, and do want a reasonable chance to earn your business.

D. To emphasize one of psyci's very essential points – do ALL negotiations strictly by email, and NEVER in person or by phone. Give a 'no, thanks' to any dealer who might insist on your coming to the dealership to negotiate.

Great job, psyci – your post is destined to become an enduring masterpiece!
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Good points all; I used my credit union broker and saved about $200 off invoice plus got some things like the mudguards and such for free...easiest purchase made...still probably could have done better though..
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Old 05-25-2009, 01:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Excellent additions, stevenvillatoro! Some good stuff I forgot to mention there, particularly dealing with the Internet department rather than regular sales. I think I'm going to start aggregating tips like these in the second post space I reserved.

I've found cars.com has a nice form thing you can use to send out e-mail to every dealer nearby - dealers almost always have this hooked directly to their Internet department, saves me the time of digging all this information up.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Credit union is the way to go. you can deal directly with the fleet manager.

I got the EXN

$21998 Tru invoice
$+1375 Tax
$ +300 T&L
------
$23673 Bare OTD Price
(My understanding was that Honda Holdback is 2% so take off another $231 if it's 3%)
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incent...ack/index.html

+ Leather Steering Wheel $65.00
+ Bumber Applique $58.00
+ Splash Guards $99.00
+ Mats $104.00
+ Wheel Locks $55.00
------
$24054 (or 23823 with 3%)

I paid 24067 ttl out the door.

Some links I used for research were:

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/deal...yword1=new+car
http://truecar.com/release/index.html

Last edited by Cassius; 06-01-2009 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, too late for me. I traded a vehicle sight unseen that was wrecked and an old pick up truck that was well warn. I then got 3gs from my employer for buying a hybrid. I got ripped on the financing 7%. My toy was at 5%. I got floor mats and free car washes for 2 years. The toy dealer wasnt interested in selling a base 08 prius.

In the end it was like 17 grand after ext warranty and finance charge. They paid off my other vehicle that was wrecked and I got 1.8 gs from that vehicles ext warranty and 215 bucks back from my insurance company.
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Old 06-02-2009, 08:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I ended up paying $20,300 before tax/title for my EX. I went to three dealers in my area, one of them wouldn't budge at all from MSRP, the other two were willing to deal, but one more than the other. I also got splash guards thrown in and 5% financing. Cheapest car I've own since my 1999 Altima by about $10,000 - it's nice to save on the payment and the gas!
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Last edited by CobaltDragon; 06-02-2009 at 08:05 AM. Reason: none
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice job on pricing CobaltDragon and Cassius!

A note on holdback: Honda apparently does 2% holdback for most of their fleet. However, if you go to this page 2010 Honda Insight Invoice Price, Dealers, Financing and Review - CarSeek.com and click "Pricing Options" at the top - it lists the holdbacks, and they are at 3%.

I'm not sure why the higher holdback - Honda may be trying to really push this car by offering better dealer cash - but I'm not complaining!
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