Yes, the dealership and any other shop will always let the air out of your tires.
Annoying.
For one thing, they are check warm tires not stone cold ones. (cold is the only way to set the true pressure) That an some mechanics can't seem to get it out of their heads that all cars don't take 32 lbs. of pressure.
That's because that is what they are trained to do. (Also a liability thing)
Willie
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01 MT "Little Red Rocket"
The first "TURBOCHARGED" Hybrid, Insight G1- (01/2003)
MaxIMA Battery (Serial #2), on 8/25/12 @ 301,520 miles
Use: 320,000 mi. @ 57.8 LMPG
I will try driving with ECON off and using sport more, in my fit i was told that i had to come to a complete stop before shifting to S mode, but i guess this is no longer the case?
The manual has several pages regarding driving with the paddles in D or S mode (and how to get into Low mode on the EX), but doesn't say anything about needing to come to a stop to switch between the two - I know I never do.
As far as having a more "normal" driving experience, try driving with Econ off for a while before resorting to S mode. And even if you go to that, there isn't any particular reason to use the paddles if you don't want to.
I get pretty similar average tank numbers as you (generally in the upper 30's), but I can attribute that to my short commute. That doesn't sound like your situation. Do you do a lot of highway driving? The speed limits on highways around here range from 60-70MPH, and people can easily cruise at 75+. Are they similar there?
What relatively little highway driving I do has taught me that there is a *substantial* difference in MPG between 55-60MPH and 75-80. If you are putting in a lot of miles at those higher speeds, I don't think you are ever going to get great MPG. Just my 2 cents...
What relatively little highway driving I do has taught me that there is a *substantial* difference in MPG between 55-60MPH and 75-80. If you are putting in a lot of miles at those higher speeds, I don't think you are ever going to get great MPG. Just my 2 cents...
Definitely is. If I could keep my I2 on the rural roads I could hit over 50 MPG, regularly.
Still, the Odyssey gets about 25 MPG (real) doing the same work the I2 is doing today. Just hitting 40 MPG is a big improvement. My I2 essentially pays for itself within a defined expense limit, it's driven about 100 miles daily. The Odyssey could had continued to do the same job, or, divert gasoline expense into a new car.
It's pretty sad all at the same time that gasoline costs so much that buying a new car sets you at break-even, or better. lol
AFAIK, you can switch from D to S anytime you want. I do. No sprockets or nuts and bolts have gone flying yet ...
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2011 Insight EX, 70k+ miles now.
Definitely is. If I could keep my I2 on the rural roads I could hit over 50 MPG, regularly.
Still, the Odyssey gets about 25 MPG (real) doing the same work the I2 is doing today. Just hitting 40 MPG is a big improvement. My I2 essentially pays for itself within a defined expense limit, it's driven about 100 miles daily. The Odyssey could had continued to do the same job, or, divert gasoline expense into a new car.
It's pretty sad all at the same time that gasoline costs so much that buying a new car sets you at break-even, or better. lol
AFAIK, you can switch from D to S anytime you want. I do. No sprockets or nuts and bolts have gone flying yet ...
I'm in the same situation. I had a Tundra, traded it in for my Insight and i'm technically making money now haha.
Not "insane" to swap another car for the Insight. But IMO anyone who trades at the dealership instead of doing a private sale is giving away probably $2K in exchange to a quick hassle-free sale - and that borders on the insane unless you are making a ton of money and are willing to wast some of it
Yes, if the engine suts-off and then re-engages (say at a stop or slowing down to near stop then accelerating again) - in these situations there is a distinct shudder and the dealers insist it is normal. I think it might be normal but its just plain bad software and should be fixable by Honda with a computer software update (have yet to hear about one that works - dealer says nothing new is out there for my '11 but some say there is an upgrade for '10 vehicles).
My computer consitently overestimates my MPG. Usually with 2-4 gallons per mile for a full tank. It shows something like 44mpg on the display but at the pump it is more like 41 on the average.
As for sport vs. economy, I'm still undesided. To be honest, I don't see much of a difference for me b/w the two in terms of MPG, but the econ just feels more relaxed and I have more gas pedal travel so I can dial-in more precisely what I want to happen. I've been driving in ECO most of the time, but on occasion do switch it off when I need more agile response and sometimes even go to the S position on the gearshift (I got the base model, so that just revs-up the engine more and is not a good thing to do at high speed, but works at low speeds well; might be different on the flappy-paddles equiped models).
Ok so there has been a lot of activity and i never got an email
Anyway, took the car in for the recall on the roof, then took it the next day for service at the regular mechanic. He did the 30k service and a CVT fluid flush, car seemed to run better than ever, but then he said the shuddering in the car was not normal and neither was the lunging it does at stop signs, which was much improved with the flush btw, but according to him a computer problem. So Today i took it back to the dealer and they reset the computer and did yet another CVT fluid change as part of the warranty service, so I paid for the other one for nothing...argh!
Now the car runs like crap again...it lunges and shudders, but the lunging forward is now when slowing down instead of when taking off. Am i missing something???
No longer want a Charger...it is meant as a muscle car and the V8 is the only way to go. Not willing to go from a hybrid to a V8 with all the driving i do and the SXT which is the V6 was just like a big heavy sedan, not much power and steering was sloppy. I now want an Acura TSX! But it will have to wait a few months. In the meant time, this car is gonna drive me nutz!
So Today i took it back to the dealer and they reset the computer and did yet another CVT fluid change as part of the warranty service, so I paid for the other one for nothing...argh!
Now the car runs like crap again...it lunges and shudders, but the lunging forward is now when slowing down instead of when taking off. Am i missing something???
Since when do they do fluid changes for free? As far as your shuttering goes, I'm betting they screwed up the programming when resetting the computer. It's happened to at least one other person here. Bring it back and have them re set it right.
I'm curious, how did your mechanic determine there was a computer problem? Bringing it for a reprogramming was a solution in search for a problem. You said it was running good after the fluid change.
__________________ 2010 EX with DDM 4500k HID Low Beams; with relay harness. Honda Splash Guards. Honda Vent Visors. Honda Rear Bumper Applique. Honda All Weather Floor Mats and Cargo Tray. Honda Leather Steering Wheel Cover. Yokohama Avid Touring S 195 60 15 Tires. Insulated doors for road noise with Quick Roof. kjanracings window rattle fix. Oversized Amsoil EAO44 Oil Filter. Honda Accord Low Horn Upgrade.
Last edited by firsthonda; 03-29-2012 at 11:05 PM.
Where you at OEBgurl?
Maybe you need some personal assist while at the dealer.
Willie
__________________
01 MT "Little Red Rocket"
The first "TURBOCHARGED" Hybrid, Insight G1- (01/2003)
MaxIMA Battery (Serial #2), on 8/25/12 @ 301,520 miles
Use: 320,000 mi. @ 57.8 LMPG
Where you at OEBgurl?
Maybe you need some personal assist while at the dealer.
Santa Rosa, CA.
For further clarification - I paid the non-honda service man to do the Honda CVT fluid change. The reason he knew it had to be a computer problem is because he has serviced Insights before. Now the problem was really bad before the fluid change, you could see the lunging from the outside...according to my service guy he felt it after the change. i went to dealer today and they confirmed it was still there so re-programmed it and according to them, since it was under honda warranty they have to do the fluid change because Honda would want them to do so as part of the warranty directed at the CVT problem.
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