You can check the pairs of sticks, 12 cells each through the taps the BMS uses, but to check the cell level, you got to poke and prod the shrink wrapped cells to do that.
It's important to not draw entire conclusions from the MID screen without being completely confident.
The information on the MID battery screen can lag approximately 20 to 30 seconds behind what's occurring in real-time. Happens all the time. It can go both ways, drop to zero or gain multiple bars to maximum in a second. The CHRG needle is more accurate as to what's going on.
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2011 Insight EX, 70k+ miles now.
The gen 1 guys say its worthless, but from my experience grid charging, balancing and using a phev kit the meter is acurate, however it lags as much as 90 seconds. Ive never got an answer if the meter is slow or if its the whole system, which would explain recals. Recals is when the TAPs between the stick pairs reads off and it goes to recalbrate the whole pack by doing a recharge or discharge cycle.
FYI, dead is 95 volts, full is 117 volts, 90% is 113-114 volts.
Right, it could be out of balance, higher IR than the rest, lower state of charge than the rest, etc.
How can you tell, then, apart from cracking the battery case open? The HDS will not detect single cell deficiency or reader's efficiency, right?
Any other way?
They checked all 84 cells? Thats quite an accomplishment!!!!!!! He should get an award or mention in the newspaper........
That is what he said. They had it for 3 days and according to Tom it took hours to put it back together so I hope they checked every little cell. I can only report what I was told.
One of the things that gets me scratching my head is reading how the gen 1 guys test the sticks or groups of 6 cells to rehab a bad battery. Having lived with recharagable cells I always test them cell by cell and try to match them the best I can. Even for devices that used 8 or 9 cells at that.
Its a taboo to talk about how to artifically make your battery throw a code to get a new one under warranty, but there is enough info on this site to figure it out.
One of the things that gets me scratching my head is reading how the gen 1 guys test the sticks or groups of 6 cells to rehab a bad battery. Having lived with recharagable cells I always test them cell by cell and try to match them the best I can. Even for devices that used 8 or 9 cells at that.
Its a taboo to talk about how to artifically make your battery throw a code to get a new one under warranty, but there is enough info on this site to figure it out.
How do you test and match an individual cell? Do you charge them for a specific period of time and test the voltage? Does the output voltage after a specific charge period indicate the quality of the cell to hold a charge?
As to making it throw a code, why should anyone have to? (getting on soapbox) I do have to make this observation. I believe you that 10% is the cut off for replacement and I was told that my battery is at 20%. But here is the point: who decides that 10% is the correct replacement value? My battery is 20%. If I have only 20% output of my engine would they say it is good, go home and come back when it is down to 10%? If my transmission was giving me only 20% output would they say that is fine, come back when it is 10%? Even my oil is slated for replacement at 15%. I think this is a unique value assigned by Honda that would not hold up if examined legally. I am no lawyer but I believe warranty repairs need to return the car to proper functionality. If Honda does not make good on my warranty very soon now I may file a complaint with the respective agencies that regulate warranties. I think this is crazy. If Honda doesn't want to swap expensive batteries then design them to be serviced. But Honda, fix your cars when they break. (Off my soapbox, for the moment)
Last edited by HybridNewGuy; 02-18-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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