FAS/EOC with auto CVT?

[reb01501]

Originally Posted by Cobb

Even if you leave the engine running, pulse and glide does help mpg.

So how do you prevent the "glide" from slowing the car too quickly to regain the mpg lost during the "pulse"?

By using EV during the glide? In my attempts, this seems to only work at low speeds on downgrades, and some of that gained mpg is lost later when the battery has to regen.

Or by shifting to neutral during the glide?
If you shift to neutral during the glide, do you ever do that above 35 mph contrary to the recommendation in the manual? What are the risks of ignoring that recommendation?

[Need4Speed]

On another forum I came across some old posts and emailed the user. I do not believe he has an Insight any longer (he had a 2003). I exchanged a number of emails with him and he supplied the following:

I've shut it off at highway speeds. 70mph+ You only have to turn it off, not all the way back.


I recommend restarting with the lowest speed possible. At speeds over 30-35 there is some jerking sometimes, and over 55 it's not pretty. Start the engine first, then shift back to drive. I usually feather the gas as I shift. Get used to shifting into neutral and leaving the engine on at first. Neutral gliding probably gives 75% of the benefit of a FAS anyway. Truthfully, I don't use the FAS often above about 25mph. But it's important when you're still getting the engine up to temp, especially in the winter. Keeps you from having to idle through the first few stop lights, if you don't get a normal auto stop.


Hopefully that helps.

So a F(orced) A(uto) S(top) just means killing the engine while still moving. The CVT will only shut off on it's own at about 4-5mph. There's ton's of good places around the county where you can coast forever on momentum and elevation. For example, heading north on 31 into McHenry there's some massive downhills. As you're coming to the crest you can ease off the gas and drop well below the speed limit. At the top, shift to neutral. Wait for the RPMs to stabilize (down around 800-1000). That usually takes a few seconds. Then key the engine off. Wait for the engine to go off (another full second). Then turn the ignition back to "on." That gives you back your interior power, so your radio comes back on, and your power steering works. Your power brakes will only work with as much fluid as you have in the pipe. That's not to say you'll lose your brakes, but they'll be much harder to push after the lines are drained of fluid.

I've done clinics with a lot of the cleanmpg guys (including Wayne), which is where I learned all the driving technique stuff from.

Anyone else care to comment on their experience with the CVT and forced auto stopping? I have not got up the nerve to even try neutral coasting for fear of damage to the CVT.

[Willie Williford]

Your brake lines are NEVER void of fluid. It'a a vacuum/pressure reaction, NOT a loss of fluid.
HTH
Willie

[Need4Speed]

I assumed that what he meant was that after using the brakes a few times with the engine shut off you will no longer have the vacuum "power" assist, and they will take a lot more effort to stop the car.

[Eli]

That is what he meant, but his understanding of how it works is seriously flawed.

[Need4Speed]

Ignoring that, he seemed to have used FAS on a CVT over a three year period, 30K miles per year, and did not report any problems.....anyone else have any experience with the CVT......