Ok, I have read that upgrading the speakers makes a world of difference. Since its a new car, not much out there, so had to do it myself. I removed the stock speaker and went inside to see what is the largest I can fit and sounds the best from the demo board at pepboys.
Basically its a tug of war to remove hte panel once you unscrew the 2 screws behind the door handle and the one in the bottom of the ash tray.
Almost finish, just got to drill a few holes and screw it down.
Ok, it gives more detail in what you hear is clear-er, however Its not louder. The radio goes to 40 and its not distorted, nor does it sound soo loud I would crank it back down.
Yup, need an amp or better head unit. I got a 4 channel 700 watt amp to put somewhere.
SHOOT!!! Thats one photo I do not have. I have not checked the front, so maybe the same, will let you guys know.
Its a poly plastic like 1 way speaker. THe only unusual thing is how small the magnet is and weak. The magnet is about the size of 5 bottle caps stacked on top of each other and just barely picks up a paper clip.
Last edited by Cobb; 06-28-2009 at 12:56 AM.
Reason: spelling error
Nice work there Cobb, customizing the frames is the type of thing I like.
I have a few questions, since you've been there before me.
First of all, removing ashtray and the bit behind the door handle: is it as easy as "pull hard enough"? Do I have to keep an eye on something to stay clear of trouble?
Did you upgrade the front door speakers and tweeters too? Is it just as easy to access them? What kind of woofers and tweeters (size wise) can I install in the front?
A lot of questions, I know, but I hope you can give me the advice I seek to plan my upgrade.
No upgrade to the front, but all 4 door panels were sprayed with the 3m sound deadening material. The front is ok, works well with the new rear speakers.
The thing behind the door handle needs a slotted screw driver to pop out and it pops back in. Remove 2 philips screws behind it to free it.
In the ash tray pull up the rubber bottom piece and remove that philips screw too. Remove the outer edge strip of plastic, then pop out the window controller and unplug it. Removing the door panel is a tug of war you can start at one edge and work around. Then raise and lift off. Behind the panel is the 2 cables for the door handle for the lock and latch. Those are a trick to remove, but not necessary, it can just hang.
__________________
Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Thanks Cobb, in my opinion the front woofers are more or less ok but the tweeters feel edgy to me, I had to tone down the highs quite a bit and now the sound is a bit dull but at least it doesn't piece my ears.
Will upgrade them ASAP.
Great job Cobb. I love your choice in speakers. I'm running the more powerfull version of that same exact speaker. Kenwoods sound great (almost seamless) in the mids and highs but have next to no bass whatsoever. The 40w rms (240w peak) version gives a little mid-bass which compliments my 8" perfect.
I have a fealing that you will want to replace those front speakers before too long. Those speakers must not sound matched at all, eh?
__________________ Thundersyt
'02 Honda Insight MT @ 191k W/rebuilt pack (via Hybrid Battery Repair)
Corey, Calpod, & TPS mods / True lifetime average of 54.5
DVD / HD radio head unit w/500w Kenwood amp & .5 farad cap
4x Kenwood 6.5" 3-ways & Kicker 8" L7 in custom stealth box (via Expert Fabricator)
7" LCD monitor in passenger sun visor/ 35% tint/ Nitrofill @ 50psi
Oh yeah, bigger is always better as long as sensitivity is high and it will rock with a better head unit. Since I did this now an adapter exists for a head unit upgrade.
It took me like 3 hours of tweaking to get it mixed right for my tastes. Between bass, treble and placement of sound and adjusting the amp for the subs. I have it set so basically trebble is high, bass is in the middle and its slightly to the rear. This way when I want to hit it, I can turn up the bass and the subs come to life.
Many of my co workers like the fact you can crank the bass and still clearly hear the music as well, vs it becoming muddy. The front are muddy so to speak, but I like it.
True they do not have much bass, one reason I wanted to go 6x9, but that would of been too much hacking to make them fit. Second, they would never rattle the rear or side view mirrors.
__________________
Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.