Quote:
Originally Posted by nameless00
Bas speakers are aimed at the floor mat covering it? I realize it's bass it's just loud, but have you considered vent slots on the carpeting or remove that and use the all seasons with vent slots over the bass speaker and amp?
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The subwoofer is facing down. Supposedly we're going to put some Dynamat down below it.
I made the comments I have from over 20 years experience in doing this. You have no idea how many thousands of dollars I have thrown away on JUNK all because I was too cheap in the beginning to buy the stuff that I have now.
I thought that everything was just a name and that it was overpriced. I wasted money on crap like equalizer-boosters and high wattage amps that had small fuses. So when you see stuff like "1500 watts" or "2000 watts" on these "Boss" amps and crap like that with 10 or 15A fuses, RUN AWAY!!
When I buy an amp, I have to see the specs on it. If the THD is anything over 0.05%, I won't spend the money on it. When I saw that this McIntosh was 0.005% THD, I had to have this thing.
Most of the amps you see now are 0.1%. That's very high. For a Class D amp running a subwoofer that's okay. But when you're powering your mid's and high's, you do not want it.
From now on I only buy very expensive amps. If I can't afford it at that time, I either keep saving up the money until I can or I buy it brand new or used on eBay. I no longer skimp on quality the way I did in the past.
All the money and time I wasted in the past. I am trying to save anyone I can from repeating all of the headaches I did.
Buy the best amp in the world that you can get your hands on and HOLD ONTO IT FOREVER!!
Don't buy what you can afford... BUY WHAT YOU WANT!
For example, if you have $300 in your pocket and the amp you want is $600, don't walk away saying that you can't afford it. Put the $300 away and keep saving up until you finally get the $600. Then buy the amp.
Do the same steps with the speakers, subwoofer and head unit.
It took me a very long time to buy my stuff, but now I have zero regrets.
Instead of paying the insane
$439 at Crutchfield for this speaker, I got the SAME EXACT ONE brand spanking new in the box on eBay for only $265.
I achieved my goal by getting what I wanted. That's all I am trying to get people to learn.
For homes and expensive cars this method is difficult to do, but car stereo equipment is not expensive enough to be out of reach.
Time flies, so if you wait long enough, you'll have what you want and not just what you could afford for the money in your pocket.
And by the way, none of this is being charged on a credit card. I saved up cash for everything. Don't pay interest on stuff like this unless it's one of those 6-months or 12-months 0% interest credit cards and that you are 100% certain you can pay the card off within that time frame.
Look at the specs of the amp. If it says 2,000 watts, then 2,000 watts divided by 14.4 volts = 138 amperes. If the amplifier has a 15 to 25A fuse on it, then you know SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT here and you are being SCAMMED.
When you buy an amp, ignore the PEAK power. What you need is RMS (root means square).
The amp I have is 400 watts RMS clean power at 0.005% THD. That's about as clean as you're going to get in any car stereo amplifier.
I once saw a Nakamichi amp for $200 on eBay that had the same 0.005% THD distortion ratio. If you can't afford something like a new McIntosh, something like this would make an awesome amp to run mid's and high's.
Then maybe a JL 500/1 or 1000/1 to power a large subwoofer.
Zapco, US Amp, the old Soundstream Class A amps, Carver, A/D/S, PPI, Hiphonics and Zues are other good ones.
I cannot recommend Kenwood because of prior experience it had a high distortion rate. Same with Alpine. I would recommend the Kenwood or Alpine head units, though.
