Eventually we'll have to replace our 12V batteries; I was just wondering if there is a strong case to get something other than OEM when the time comes. I know the existing one is small capacity and I would expect this fact is sometimes a limiting factor to auto-stopping and possibly sometimes causes forced regen in situations when you don't want the added drag (acceleration), reducing overall efficiency and driver satisfaction. Do the hybrid experts think that is a fair/accurate assessment? Are there other reasons why an improved 12V may be recommended for most drivers?
I'm hoping there might be a better 12V that is competitive or cheaper than the OEM. Anyone spec it out yet?
Or if not if someone could please direct me to a battery 101 site so I can learn what to look for to do the work of spec'ing for myself.
You can use a 9# Braille racing battery, a 12# Hawker Odyssey(PC545), any size 51 perhaps an Optima, or some just put a $20 lawn mower battery in and seems to work fine for those using one. I'm leaning towards getting an Odyssey though they run a little high($127.14 at West Coast Batteries). I'd probably get the bracket and bolt it in the back of stock battery holder.
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Since the IMA does most all of the starting, Cold Cranking Amps rating is not that big of a deal. You will almost never have a cold instant high amp draw.
I think what we need may be what's called a Deep Cycle battery. It is not designed for high CCA numbers. It is designed for capacity so that it can drain slowly for a long time. A good example might be a trolling motor battery.
Two issues I need to investigate before I pull the trigger. First, I'm curious how the IMA battery charges the 12v and if that would be conducive to long life of a deep cycle battery. I think it will be okay, but I'd like to prove it to myself. Second, I need to find a deep cycle battery of the size we need.
When I went to SEMA, I tried to talk to the Optima rep about this. Alas, he was more of a saleman than a tech guy.
Ah, sorry about that. The AGM batteries may be worth looking at for their longevity and they don't outgas like wet cell batteries so corrosion is less of a problem. Can't speak to size or spec capacities.
The optima from what I was told was great if it needs to be mounted upside down and still function after a few slugs are shot through it. Its actually rated less than a group 51. Myself I want a deep cycle and think you can squeeze a u1, the tractor battery as its called. The battery bard sells the agm deep cycle version 70 bucks each.
Interestingly enough many BMWs, a few Accuras, Hyundais and Kias use the same size battery we do.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Gen2 owners, has anyone put a voltmeter across the 12V battery? The reason I ask, the Gen1 DC to Dc convertor does not fully charge the 12V battery, it aims for 12.0 to12.1V, significantly less than 12.6V of a fully charged unit, and rather close to the 11.8V of a discharged unit.
What are the level of voltages during driving and resting for comparison?
At first fire, its 14 volts on the dot for the first few miles. Even in auto stop and cold engine light on. Then it pops in and out and the battery howevers between 12.7-12.6. Then before you know its back to 14. Once warmmed up when in auto stop you do not see chargingof the 12 volt side. Now when my wipers turn on or I turn them on you may catch the battery read 12.5, then boom auto stop quits and the battery is at 14 volts and engine is on.
Interesting since my geo holds at 14.2 with no load, then as you turn on the accessories it starts to fall. Ive seen it down to 13.2 with lights, blower on #2 and radio on low volume.
I routinely once a month use a 12 volt charger on my cars and even hot off the charger in this cold weather it still holds the battery at 14 volts. Kind of blows the voltage drop for triggering it in the first place. Once the car sensor reads 45 degrees or more it starts to cycle the charge off and on as needed.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Gen2 owners, has anyone put a voltmeter across the 12V battery? The reason I ask, the Gen1 DC to Dc convertor does not fully charge the 12V battery, it aims for 12.0 to12.1V, significantly less than 12.6V of a fully charged unit, and rather close to the 11.8V of a discharged unit.
What are the level of voltages during driving and resting for comparison?
Are you taking this voltage from an actual voltmeter or the Scangauge, remember the OBDII value reads low on the Scangauge, at least for the Gen1. My battery will show 12.7v open circuit after not driving it overnight with any of my 3 meters and the Scangauge will show about .6v less.
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Improved replacements for 12V battery?
