CVT Filter

[Jayemtee]

There have been questions on when to change the CVT fluid. There has been pure confusion regarding the replacement of the CVT fluid filter.

Just about half of the Honda employees in sales, service, and parts that I have spoken to are not even aware that there is an inline CVT filter between the radiator and the CVT. Even those that are aware of the filter often say that Honda doesn't have a time life on it and therefore it should never be changed.

I changed my fluid and filter in April, when my I2 had 12k miles. Judging by the smell and color of the fluid, I would not want to change it much (if any) later than that. See CVT Fluid/Filter Change for details.

It has long bothered me as to what was inside that filter. Was it a coarse screen mesh to catch big pieces in case the CVT has a catastrophic internal failure and that's why it has no life span? Or was it a fine paper filter to keep the fluid clean and keep wear down? If it was a fine filter, why no time change?

I finally got around to taking my old CVT filter apart. Surprise, the correct answer is B. Yes, it is indeed a very fine paper filter that catches most anything. Furthermore, it has a specific inlet and outlet and it is important to get the new one installed correctly.

Here's my beef with Honda. They say that filter will last the life of the car. By the time that filter clogs and the CVT craters, sure the life of the car is pretty much over. On the other hand, this filter does pick up minute particles. You can see by the pictures on the referenced thread that the magnetic chip detector did pick up quite a bit of material, so imagine how much made it to the filter and how much longer the CVT would last if the filter were kept clean. That puts a big variable on the life of the car.

My biggest problem with Honda's policy is heat. The CVT circulates fluid to the radiator for cooling. I suggest that each particle of debris that is caught by this filter restricts the flow of fluid through the radiator a little. By the time enough particles accumulate on the magnetic plug to coat it as much as mine was and to have fuzz sticking out 1/10 of a CM, I suggest that flow through the filter is "significantly" reduced. And this is only after 12k miles. Imagine how effective your CVT fluid flow through the radiator is at 25k, 50k, or more miles if this is the result of 12k.

I traded in my Insight for a CR-Z shortly afterwards, so I have no data on how the next 12k miles would pan out. Nor have I seen pictures of anyone else's mag plug on a CVT fluid change. I do know that my CR-Z will get a fluid and filter change in the 10k-12k range and I will compare the results.

[carniver]

Is it difficult to change this filter? I wonder if I tell my dealer to replace it, will they know what I'm talking about.

[Jayemtee]

Dirt simple, especially if the cover is off for an oil change. You need pliers to take off the friction hose clamps on each side, and ratchet with socket for the clamp that holds the filter in place. All have easy access once the oil change panel is removed from the bottom of the car.

Some dealers don't recognize this filter since it isn't in their specifications for change. If they look in the parts book and say the only filter is inside the CVT or can't find it, tell them to look in the section called Electrical/Exhaust/Heater/Fuel, then the subsection called Radiator Hose - Reserve Tank. Make sure they have it in stock before you let them start because they might have to order it. Or order it yourself from an online discount Honda parts outlet.

[Cobb]

Thanks for posting. My dealer knew exactly what I was talking about. They knew it was not recommended for replacement, but were gladly to sell me one and infact had a few in stock.

Ive changed mines twice now. This past oil change the cvt fluid still looks clean, so I just replaced the filter. Last oil change I changed the fluid and it looked fairly clean just some slight silt on the drain plug. No where as nasty as the first fluid change. I may not change the filter any more, but will still do the fluid. I think that is one reason I dont have the studder problems and jerkyness others talk about.

I was a bit concern that it was a wire mesh and it was designed so as it gets dirty it traps more and smaller particles, yet reduced flow. So, changing it can cause more crap of smaller sizes to circulate around the cvt, but at least it will be cool.

Many newer transmissions are sealed or have an internal filter that is not replacable without some serious work.

Cant speak for the crz, but typically manual trannys have no filters, just a magnetiic drain plug. Most automatics have a filter or screen, then also the magnetic plug.