EGR delete or disconnecting the egr. I did this once before and lost 20 mpg on my partial trip to work where I tested eco mods. Lets keep in mind I normally netted around 90 mpg, so I wouldnt sweat it. Ill see what my real world mpg is in a few days.
It did help with the jerkyness at 20-40 mph. It also caused a check engine light after some miles and prevented auto stop.
This time around I did it for performance. Wow, this car has a nice acceleration rate under 3 grand and I see positive timing vs it being retarded -19 degrees. Plus in the winter it keeps the heat warm not having it stop at the few stop lights I have.
Ill try it for a few more days, but so far its made the insight a whole new car to drive.
FYI, its the mushroom shaped thing on the lassenger side at the front left corner of the engine. I just unplugged it. Next Ill try a blocking plate.
Man, this really brought new life to the i2. On the way home I got the check emissions light. No big deal since I unplugged the egr and have an sg2 to clear codes. I have a grade to go up half a mile from a 35 to a 65 mph zone. I always hang at 50 mph and the vtec kicking in, you know the angry bees sound behind me. Today I slowly accelerated up the hill and no sound of the vtec or bees behind me.
Man, it pulls to redline and you get true engine braking. Even with the snorkle delete and 117+ degree air it retards the timing, but it still pulls. You can barely feel a negative recal with it. This is really a fun car to drive and so far my loss has been 3 mpg on my daily commute. I went from 49 on the mid to 47.
Since doing this I have edited the blocker plate from a small hole to a larger hole on the exhaust side, assuming the servo moves through the opening. After clearing the check emissions check engine light I still get the code anywhere from 30-300 miles. Once the code is generated it limits auto stop and ev mode, but next cycle its back, the error and fuel saving features.
Overall I think its worth it as you got the performance of having eco mode off with the further fuel savings features like the dead petal and casual acceleration of the cruse control. If you hammer the throttle it kicks right in and the acceleration is just more torque in nature below 3 grand and above 5 grand.
With it and my more agressive driving I lost 3 mpg. Ill see if I can be more lax like previous and what it nets.
Sorry, I have to call BS on this one. The EGR isn't commanded on in high load situations, so unplugging it or blocking it off can't make any difference in power. EGR is a part load thing. It is off at idle and off at higher loads, and very closely controlled when it is called for. I don't know if one can read EGR in a generic scanner on the Insight, but with a full function scanner you will see exactly what I'm talking about.
Go ahead, challenge me, unplug it and see what happens. I seriously doubt it follows that logic as its not vacuum controlled. I think the i2 uses it for emissions control in a proactive manner at various rpms if not timing settings as higher timing can increase NOX.
@Kjanracing: Can you provide the source of that information? I am considering a regulated WAI and am aware that the EGR may lessen its efficiency. So I like to know the ins and outs of this to make the right decision.
Your explanation sounds reasonable enough but contradicts Cobb's practical data. Which raises my interest in the situation; there is something to learn here. And I want to make a rWAI that works well of course.
2011 Insight Elegance Accord horn, Waxoyl, HIDs, LEDs, lower grille block, plans for several eco mods
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