i've been reading about people getting capacitors to run multi-amp systems... i assume to help with preserving the alternator. i know the Insight doesn't have an alternator, so my question is, will running two high-current amps put damaging strain on the electrical system of the Insight?
i'm currently running one HK CA260, bridged mono to a sub and am going to hook up another CA260 soon, to run the door spkrs.
here are some quick specs on the CA260
~ HCC (high instantaneous current capability): +/- 30A
~ typical current requirements
- at idle: 2.5A
- full power music signal: 6.7A (4 ohms.ch.); 10A (2 ohms/ch.)
- full power sine wave: 20A (4 ohms.ch.); 30A ( 2 ohms/ch.)
There is only about a 30 amp overhead with the stock DC/DC converter, so do not draw more than this much power (use a 30 amp fuse). John Wayland, who makes/made the whole shoebox subwoofer system dove pretty deep in to this when he first got his early Insight in 2000. You don't want to be pulling too much power, and quite frankly unless there something limiting the inrush current in to a capacitor it will only potentially generate higher current draws.
Either way, consider that DC/DC converter is a over $1,000 part to replace.
__________________
Later, Ricky
02 Red Insight - Sold
06 Silver Civic Hybrid
92 Saturn SC2 Electric, Arizona Alt fuel plate "ZEROGAS"
The 2 amps combine will draw a potential peak of 60A If you fuse in parallel to the battery then that will be the load. Fuse in series throught a 20A and you'll likely blow this fuse on heavy deep bass notes (but save the DC-DC converter (alternator)). You can _probably_ "get away" with it for a while but depending on many factors (if fused at 60A) this additional overloading will take its toll.
The last time I checked the DC-DC converter was $1,200.
In theory some _BIG_ capacitors sized correctly in parallel with the B+ and shunted with a resistor to limit their in rush feed can reduce the peak load slightly. But you'll need to find someone with the electronics background to do the calculation. And in theory it would still be "possible" to push this safeguard beyond its limits of assist too.
Good thing your looking for help via the written word. With the dbA this system will punch out you'll be deaf in a matter of hours. :P
Good thing your looking for help via the written word. With the dbA this system will punch out you'll be deaf in a matter of hours. :P
LOL! sucka.
i'm not a loud listener of music, but i definitely like full, quality sound. i was planning on running both amps off of that single HOT wire (w/20A fuse and a distribution block)
I'll stick with that route. I hoping everything will be fine since I won't be pulling more than 20As at a time.
WOW That's some serious bass dbA. Enough bass note atmospheric compression to degrade the optic nerve. (If you missed seeing my razz ( :P ) )
Seriously, your 20A fuse for both amps combine will limit the total load to... 20A. And will be the protection your electrical system needs. But I'd suspect that when you crank it up (only to "test" it of course) on the first bass note the fuse will blow.
Seriously, your 20A fuse for both amps combine will limit the total load to... 20A. And will be the protection your electrical system needs. But I'd suspect that when you crank it up (only to "test" it of course) on the first bass note the fuse will blow.
Good Luck
I'll second that. If you really do want to have more power it can be done, but you will have to add another DC/DC converter to the car to independently power the amps. You'll have to talk to John Wayland though about it as he's the only one who's put this powerful of a stereo in an Insight. It shouldn't be too difficult to do, but you would be working around high voltage so you'd have to be careful.
I should mention a non Honda Insight specific DC/DC converter will be maybe a couple hundred bucks max.
__________________
Later, Ricky
02 Red Insight - Sold
06 Silver Civic Hybrid
92 Saturn SC2 Electric, Arizona Alt fuel plate "ZEROGAS"
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