The brake switch has two wires: +12V Always Hot, and the other one carries +12V to the brake lamps and ECU when the pedal is pressed.
The clutch switch has two wires: +5V from the ECU, and GND. Short the first to ground and it thinks the clutch is pressed.
Attached is a picture of the wires you want.
Thanks for that, I can make out which wires I need now. At this point I would like to smile and walk away... however Im no electronical whizz like most on here and I'm still confused (at least Im honest!).
My switches have a positive and a negative terminal. Do I need to ground one terminal and connect the other to the wire as above?
Thanks.
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2000 MT Insight Citrus 55k
TPS Mod (on/off Switch for Town & Sport/Motorway)
IMA Switch
Regen Switch
Scangauge II & 6" Rad-block
S2000 Steering Wheel
Flat Wipers
Pioneer MP3 Head Unit
Alpine Component Speakers
Original Door Speakers installed Into Rear
HID's & LED's
Sound Deadened
Grid Charger
I beleive with the clutch and brake you are just completing the ground...No?
Yea,
I worded that wrong. I should have said completing the CIRCUT.
The polarity of the new switch really doesn't matter.
I'll have to try this mod soon.
Thanks guys/gals
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2005 Formula Red 5 Spd a/c ...58 life mpg
vin# 0026
Do you have lighted switches? That is the only was I can imagine them being polarity sensitive.
Not lighted no, I dont think they are polarity sensitive, just there is two terminals on the back, one for the "I" and one for "0". This is the switch here:
TPS Mod (on/off Switch for Town & Sport/Motorway)
IMA Switch
Regen Switch
Scangauge II & 6" Rad-block
S2000 Steering Wheel
Flat Wipers
Pioneer MP3 Head Unit
Alpine Component Speakers
Original Door Speakers installed Into Rear
HID's & LED's
Sound Deadened
Grid Charger
This is a standard spst switch (on/off single circuit). It is not polarity sensitive. It doesn't matter what wire goes where. This switch is suitable for your IMA disable and TPS disable.
__________________ Thundersyt
'02 Honda Insight MT @ 191k W/rebuilt pack (via Hybrid Battery Repair)
Corey, Calpod, & TPS mods / True lifetime average of 54.5
DVD / HD radio head unit w/500w Kenwood amp & .5 farad cap
4x Kenwood 6.5" 3-ways & Kicker 8" L7 in custom stealth box (via Expert Fabricator)
7" LCD monitor in passenger sun visor/ 35% tint/ Nitrofill @ 50psi
I've had the mod in the car for a while now....I love it! Once you figure out the most efficient way to utilize the switch it really helps out.
I drive 30 miles each way to work and back and travel over a large hill on the way. I have found that by using this switch I can keep the battery pack only dropping down two bars on the way to work. Quite often the computer will be wanting to add assist when its not needed. Example, traveling up a hill at a steady 55mph, holding steady on the FCD at 50mpg it will show 4 bars of assist...but if I use the mod switch to kill the assist I still remain at 55mph and still show 50mpg...I find I can do this quite regularly and not deplete the pack, the higher I can keep the pack the less background charging that doesn't have to happen later.
I've found that by shutting down the assist in certain places I do loose a small bit on the FCD, usually 5-10mpg in the short term while climbing a hill ect. If the hill is short the small hit is better than having the background charge later which will give me a larger hit on the other end. Took quite a bit of playing on my run to work but I think I've figured out the best combo now.
I believe the energy conversion efficiency from crankshaft to battery back to crankshaft is around 70%. You're much better off to avoid background regen at all costs, even if it means revving the engine up to 4000-5000RPM. Don't use more assist than you can pay back with regenerative braking.
The next level of hypermiling includes: don't use the brakes. Not even the regenerative brakes. Turn off your engine and coast to a stop.
On my commute, there are only a few hypermiling opportunities.
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