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Old 04-03-2011, 09:05 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Where can I find this switch? Not in the bay area so that won't help me. I found this one

DPDT ON-OFF-(ON) TOGGLE SWITCH | AllElectronics.com

but I'm worried it'll be too big.
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Old 04-03-2011, 10:20 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Try the Mouser catalog. They have a huge selection, and they're willing to ship you qty=1 of anything and bill you accordingly.

on-off-mom switch
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Old 04-04-2011, 01:10 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertSmalls View Post
Try the Mouser catalog. They have a huge selection, and they're willing to ship you qty=1 of anything and bill you accordingly.

on-off-mom switch
They do have an unspoken minimum charge of about $15 or so.

Several months back I ordered $3 worth of resistors and such, and shipping for 1 ounce of stuff in a very small box was $11 inside the U.S.

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Old 04-06-2011, 07:40 PM   #74 (permalink)
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So just completed the mod. Did a couple of things different though. First, I used two switches instead of one. Two reasons: 1) No on-off-(on) switches were sold in a store locally. 2) Wasn't willing to pay $13 for a switch. So I used a push button momentary for the brake and a SPST toggle switch for the clutch. Mod works great. I am loving it already. I also mounted the switches above the change tray next to the door (where the blank cutouts are). If anyone wants a picture let me know.

Note: You have to have the toggle turned to on for the brake switch to work.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:53 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Thank you. I am going to start on this mod tomorrow.

Tim
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:53 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Default Switch melting due to high current ??!!

Guys, I've had this mod in my car now for almost a year and it works wonderfully. However, about 2 months ago, the momentary side of the DPDT switch (brakes) started smoking whenever I engage it for more than 3 seconds.

I finally tore it apart Sunday and confirmed that the smoke was indeed coming from the momentary side of the switch. The DPDT switch is pretty much identical to the OP, with a 3A rating. The funny thing is the clutch side works fine and I can leave it on for minutes, but the brake one can't seem to handle the current for just a few seconds.

Does anyone know how much current the brake side is passing? What if I put a resistor on one of the wires, would that still work or does it need a complete short for it to trigger regen??

Thanks
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:36 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Does anyone know how much current the brake side is passing? What if I put a resistor on one of the wires, would that still work or does it need a complete short for it to trigger regen??

Thanks
A typical stop light bulb (#1157) draws a little over 2 amps @ 12 volts. Add up the amps for as many stop bulbs you have. You need a switch that can handle ~20% more current to be safe since a typical car 12 volt battery can charge to ~14.1 volts.

This belated post is for other people who might have the same problem.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:08 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Can the clutch switch be on all the time (assist never available)? Does the clutch switch only switch a signal versus having a load (bulbs, etc) going through it?
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:34 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Clutch switch is a low-current signal. Any switch you can find will do. You should use a relay for the brake side, though.

Has anybody found problems with keeping the clutch switch on constantly? Seems like if you had it on (so the car thought the clutch was in) and were coming to a stop in a low gear, the car might try to auto-stop while the clutch is still out.

Last edited by Mario; 12-17-2012 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:32 PM   #80 (permalink)
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No problem with the clutch switch on constantly.
(The only DANGER is that the car WILL START in gear with the clutch pedal not being pressed) You will have once chance for idle stop after activating the switch, then no more auto stop until the switch is activated again. (confusing?)
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