I am going to build a MIMA-L to try in my Insight. The reason to build the MIMA-L instead of the current more advanced system is that I feel the $1000 could be better used to buy batteries for a quad battery system. I currently have only the Insight Battery but have a Civic batter on its way to me now and will eventually add two more Civic batteries to make up a full quad system. My goal to have an insight that can go as close to "full electric" as is possible with an Insight and be able to do it for 20 to 25 miles and have plug in charging.
I want to modify it so that I have three controls on the center arm rest console that I have just built and installed, one three position switch for Electric, MIMA, and Gasoline with the MIMA being the center position where the IMA is turned off. A second three position switch will be for ASSIST and REGEN with center being OFF. The third control will be a single potentiometer for "amplitude" of the ASSIST or REGEN. There will be a fourth ON-OFF switch that either enables or disables the console. Its a simple system compared to the newer system or even compared to the original MIMA-L, but will be easier for me to do what I want and easier to use without too much concentration.
I would like to hear from anyone that has experience with the original MIMA-L and can give me any hints on the building or operating of that system.
__________________
Jim Isbell
2000, 5 speed, 250,000 miles
"If you are not living on the edge, well then,
you are just taking up too much space."
I did a cutout in the front of the shift knob, then used the epoxy putty Mike supplied. The whole is inset into the know which puts the joystick almost center. I then used a black magic marker to make it match. The photo makes it look really bad, but the colors actually blend to the eye. The camera picks up to much reflection.
I also had to replace the 2 side switched as my son (accidentally) broke them off.
Jim,
An important thing to remember is that the full MIMA also monitors battery and MPI temperatures and runs the fans more aggressively when they get hot, which they will if you start running with a lot more electric.
You can activate those fans using the same interconnect that I did for MIMA, and simply use a switch.
When more battery capacity is available, the PIMA mode where the engine load activates assist and regen in a programmable fashion, gives the easiest to use interface. You just drive normally, and have assist set to kick in at 90-110MPG. I can get over 100MPG for 45 minutes 60-70 MPH with a fully charged booster pack, and at 45MPH, that is extended to 1-1.5Hours.
MIMA-L is exactly like MIMA on demand and MIMA active (without ABC) in the full system.
Have fun.
uhtrinity
Now all you need is a leather sewn on cover.
"I would like to hear from anyone that has experience with the original MIMA-L and can give me any hints on the building or operating of that system."
Like others in Insight Nation, I've always thought that the Insight isn't complete without the option to manually control assist and regen. Consequently, I believe that the MIMA modification is worth the price. The added features that Mike has described are quite useful.
If the cost is a concern, then MIMA_L is a good option, but there's a significant amount of effort involved, and the risks are higher.
There are actually a few small advantages to the MIMA_L, one being the ability to effect low levels of assist and/or regen, as there's no dead zone as with the MIMA_C.
Although I'm currently using the MIMA_C, I'd built the first "hard wired" MIMA_L (#2) as #1 was a breadboard. I still have it for historic and sentimental value. Although the circuit has fewer components than the MIMA_C, I recall that the building process of the MIMA_L was a bit tedious, as I used a very small circuit board, and soldering isn't my specialty. I was quite happy with the MIMA_L and used it for almost a year with only 3 problems. One was a wire that broke loose, and since I had a switch to turn it on or off, it wasn't a safety hazard. However, there are connections, which if accidentally broken, could present a safety hazard.
Also after installing the MIMA_C wiring harness, I accidentally reversed the connectors to the MIMA_L, causing an IMA fault. Fortunately, there was no permanent damage, despite considerable anxiety.
Although I recall calculating the precise component values to enable equal assist and regen signals, I made the mistake of not initially using low temperature coefficient capacitors. Consequently, in hot weather, I'd lose the ability to engage full assist. I later replaced the capacitor(s) with temperature stable components.
For lessons learned, I'd suggest wire wrap as an alternative to "rat's nest" wiring. I would also suggest using different types of connectors for the respective control console and IMA system interfaces.
Also, considering your location, I'd agree with Mike's suggestion of adding a switch to force on the battery pack ventilation fan. I'd installed a temperature sensor in the battery pack for monitoring on a dashboard display. Electronic indoor/outdoor thermometers are relatively inexpensive at department stores.
I had a small digital volt meter, velcro attached to the dashboard to monitor assist and regen values. You could add a simple scaling circuit to avoid using the logic ground (as I did) and to enable displaying actual assist/regen current values.
I'm assuming you understand the advantages/disadvantages of using a potentiometer that doesn't have a self centering mechanism.
Good luck with your project.
__________________
'gonEfishnt
2001 5S, "Sputnik"; Various Modifications; 76.6 LMPG at 75K miles
The plug in harness is starting to shape up nicely, the schematic is available here: http://www.99mpg.com/resources/articles ... uginharne/
anyone want to help check harness schematic with old harness, will be appreciated.
The new plug in harness has full access to all of the ECM and MCM signals. If I go from a 10 conductor to a 16 conductor ribbon between the ECM and the distribution board, I could bring other signals to the distribution board.
Clutch, Neutral, brake, NEP(engine rpm), come to mind.
The DB-25 from the MCM has extra conductors as well. I can simply provide pads on the spare pins, so we can decide later?
Thoughts!
1) The VSS signal and it's associated ground (Is that the car body?)
2) An ignition switched 12v supply and ground (To turn BMS Master on/off)
3) A Regen/Assist disable input (So that when my BMS says Bat V too high/low it can inhibit via MIMA the Assist/Regen.)
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re: New MIMA Thread
