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Old 08-01-2010, 03:52 PM   #521 (permalink)
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Unhappy Ouch!

Jim,
That must have hurt in more ways than one.

Speaking of embarrassing things, and not having respect for the equipment, yesterday I lost the end of my right thumb to a tablesaw accident, after thousands of hours of using the saw, I got distracted, and it bit me good.
(Warning, pretty nasty photo)
http://99mpg.com/Data/resources/down...stuff/ouch.jpg
This will definitely slow me down for several months.
Ouch!

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Old 08-01-2010, 04:16 PM   #522 (permalink)
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"Ve get too soon alt und too late schmaht."

Hugh-Falls
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:36 PM   #523 (permalink)
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I've been working on assembling my own DIY MIMA C, and I'm mostly finished with the important things and working on finishing touches.

I need some way to hold the LEDs for the display perfectly perpendicular to the board while I solder them. Any thoughts?

Also, McMaster Carr will only sell joystick knobs 50 at a time, so that's out. I'd like to think I can use a more precise controller anyway. Has anyone attached some kind of 5cm rigid stick to the end of the joystick pot?
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:57 PM   #524 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertSmalls View Post
Has anyone attached some kind of 5cm rigid stick to the end of the joystick pot?
I used a cheap thin hollow plastic black paintbrush handle glued onto the joy pot on my MIMA setup to give a 15cm arm which i can operate with both hands on steerting wheel. My joypot is housed in the lower steering wheel ignition cowling.
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:04 PM   #525 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dabrowski 2000 View Post
Jim,
That must have hurt in more ways than one.

Speaking of embarrassing things, and not having respect for the equipment, yesterday I lost the end of my right thumb to a tablesaw accident, after thousands of hours of using the saw, I got distracted, and it bit me good.
(Warning, pretty nasty photo)
http://99mpg.com/Data/resources/down...stuff/ouch.jpg
This will definitely slow me down for several months.
Ouch!
{gasp}

Reminds me of why presses have two buttons to operate.
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Old 08-04-2010, 01:06 PM   #526 (permalink)
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I put the leds into the holes in the black delrin bezel while soldering them in, which holds them in the correct position, so you may want to make the bezel first.
A rigid stick or anything else that you can drill a small hole in will work, just make sure that the joystick can move through the full range of motion.
I have fixtures for drilling the bezel holes and joystick knobs accurately, I don't have any more bezel material, but do have some extra wood balls for the joystick.

If you buy a strip of black delrin for the bezel and send it to me, I can drill the holes for you.
Contact me directly if you want to go that route
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Old 08-04-2010, 04:53 PM   #527 (permalink)
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Ah, a jig? Good thinking. I made one just now with an old paint stirring stick, a ruler, a centerpunch, and a 1/8" drill bit. It worked much better than I thought it would. My LEDs are now soldered very uniformly in place.
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:24 PM   #528 (permalink)
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Hi Robert,

Do you have any suggestions for those of us who have not taken the MIMA plunge yet?

I purchased a bare board last year, but have not ordered any components for it yet or made the harness.

Any advice or pictures will be appreciated.

Jim.
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:42 PM   #529 (permalink)
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It's been a very enjoyable project so far. There's a picture and my first impressions on my "blog" at EM.

You can order up all the parts from here, pile them into the board and solder them in place. It's actually pretty easy. It was much easier for me than my attempt at building MIMA-L with an ad hoc board layout.

The items on the list from McMaster are not critical to the operation of MIMA, though a joystick knob of some kind would be handy.

There are a few unused components I'd omit if I had it to do over, including the six pin phone jack and the transistor on the display board. I'd also solder the fuse directly to the board and skip the fuseholder.

You may want a temperature-controlled soldering iron. Use higher temperature, less time, and not too much solder on the connections that act like heat sinks, such as the diodes with their fat wires. I think the "hot and fast" approach is also appropriate for IC's.

Don't be like me. Resist the temptation to reengineer the product. This temptation strikes me no matter what I'm working on, and while I feel there's room for cost-cutting here, sticking to the plans almost guarantees success.

I was hoping to conduct my first test of MIMA + LB today. I piled 200lbs of cargo into the back, turned the key, and got a P1644 (bad connection between ECU and MCM, on a wire that MIMA doesn't use). So I can't offer driving impressions yet, nor have I tried any modes other than manual operation.
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:54 PM   #530 (permalink)
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Wink Mima #140

I just shipped MIMA # 140 to a guy in Las Vegas. Still have 23 systems left.
It is taking me an extra 6 hours for each system as I have to build up the MCM and ECM boards for each of the remaining systems.
While I could raise the price in compensation, I will bite the bullet and keep the price the same.
Like I said before, I want to see the systems in peoples cars saving gas, rather than sitting on my pool table, which has not seen a game of pool for several years.

So please help me out here and order some MIMA systems so I can clean off the pool table, and I can have a place to build the grid chargers, and maybe sneak in an occasional game of pool.
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