Sound Proofing Project-Phase 3: Front Wheel Wells - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum
 
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View Poll Results: How likely are you to do any sound deadening on your insight?
Definitely 6 54.55%
likely 1 9.09%
Maybe 2 18.18%
Not likely 1 9.09%
No thanks, I like the road noise. 1 9.09%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 03-25-2009, 08:50 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Sound Proofing Project-Phase 3: Front Wheel Wells

Phase 3: Front Wheel Wells
- Materials:
- Great Stuff Expanding Foam
- Rubberized Undercoating Spray
- 1/2" Closed Cell Foam (like Ensolite)

- Tools:
- 10mm socket
- Socket Wrench
- Latex gloves
- box knife
- exacto knife
- measuring tape
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Flathead screwdriver

Goals: The total project should be under $100, under 50lbs, reduce road noise by 3-7dBA and eliminate rattles

Intro: As part of the continuation of our sound proofing project we now tackle the beast. Most Insight owners agree that the wheel wells are one of the loudest generators of sound. The culprit in our case is the low rolling resistance tires and the relatively high tire pressure. Since these tires are absolutely essential to the sweet gas mileage we all enjoy, we can't very well change the tires so instead we will need to do some serious sound dampening.

Unfortunately completing this is not an easy task. The front wheel wells are not fully enclosed and the plastic liner only covers part of the well.

Step 1: Prep
Jack the wheel up and remove the tire and wheel. Spray the well out with a hose really good and wipe everything down with a clean towel. Remove the plastic well liner and wipe down the back side with a clean towel. This is the side we are going to place the 1/2" closed cell foam. Make sure you note where the pop-in rivets go and the phillips screws because you don't want to put the foam on those parts.

Step 2: 1/2" Closed Cell Foam
You will have to do a lot of custom cutting here, but cover as much of the back side of the wheel well liner with the foam as you are able. Just like the foam in phases 1 and 2 you will spray down the plastic with High Tack Adhesive spray and then after letting it set for at least 5 minutes go to town with adhering the foam. Make sure you spray the back of the foam as well. Once glued put the wheel well liner back in.



Step 3: Masking
Using newspaper and masking tape you need to mask off the brake caliper, and that entire assembly as well as the spring and brake hose. Make sure to also mask off the front quarter panel so that there is no risk of overspray on the paint.

*** If you skip this step and get underspray on your paint make sure to take your stupid pill too and then make sure you tell your lawyer that I warned you so that he will advise you not to sue me.

Don't worry about masking the bolts screws because this stuff isn't so thick that you won't be able to get to them.



Step 4: Underspray
Ok, this step is primarily mass loading and secondarily sound dampening. It will not be extremely thick unless you get spray on bed liner or something like that. If someone wants to try spray on bed-liner, let me know how it goes. Thicker stuff might work better.

Spray on a full coat using the directions on the can. Let it set for 15min and then spray on another coat. Repeat this process until you've used an entire can. I think I got 5 full coats out of a can.

Once finished spraying, remove the masking after you're positive there will be no drips but before the spray dries completely because you don't want chunks of newspaper stuck in your wheel well.



Step 5: Great Stuff Expanding foam
Using the 10mm socket, remove the three screws on the top of the quarter panel (you have to pop the hood to get to them). Then remove the screw located just below where the mirror is (you have to open the door to see this screw.

**IMPORTANT: Mask off the two holes where the door hinges are. Otherwise you will do what I did and have the expanding foam spewing out of it for hours. Fortunately once the stuff dries it is pretty easy to get off and doesn't seem to damage the paint. I would mask those holes by wedging a piece of cardboard inside and taping over the outside.

Gently lift the top of the front quarter panel over the lip (enough to get the straw of the expanding foam in). Spray away and focus more on the part of the well that is closest to the passenger compartment.

**Repeat steps 1-5 on the other wheel well

Step 6: Put it all back together
Remove any masking you've done and put the bolts back in for the quarter panel. Let the expanding foam set for a couple of hours. It continues expanding for some time.

Results: Ok, so I must say that I had VERY high expectations for this part of the project because it is arguably the loudest part of the car at highway speed. The results were less than I expected and wanted. Part of the reason (as stated before) is that it's difficult to just put ensolite around the entire wheel well because of the design. Half the wheel well rests right up against the firewall anyway. For that reason, I think if I were to do the project all over again, I would do the firewall before I did the front wheel wells.

With all that said, loud bangs from potholes are now dull thuds and the pitch of the highway drone is noticably lower in note, but I can't tell if it's really that much quieter.

Upcoming
- Phase 4: Floors and firewall
- Phase 5: Rear wheel wells
- Phase 6: Misc areas
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default

Thanks! Cant wait to try out some of these modifications.
__________________
2000 MT Insight Citrus 55k

TPS Mod (on/off Switch for Town & Sport/Motorway)
IMA Switch
Regen Switch

Scangauge II & 6" Rad-block
S2000 Steering Wheel
Flat Wipers
Pioneer MP3 Head Unit
Alpine Component Speakers
Original Door Speakers installed Into Rear
HID's & LED's
Sound Deadened
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Generic expansion foam vs. two part foam injection products

Nice work. Very Professional.

Just a side note here: Be very cautious injecting generic expansion foams into closed cavities. These require air in order to cure; and if they are injected into a closed, air tight, space, they can remain a gooey liquid. It remains in this state until it gradually hardness (but never expands) defeating its original purpose.



For large enclosed spaces, the two part foams should be used. They mix in the application gun and self cure w/o the need for an external air source. I used the above pictured Handifoam product for these types of projects. Source it here: http://www.foampower.com/store/two_component/index.html

gordo

Last edited by Gordo; 07-13-2009 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 07-13-2009, 12:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Good point. Had I done it again, I am not sure I would have done the expansion foam. If the stuff expands onto the paint it becomes a pain in the butt to get off, but fortunately doesn't seem to corrode the paint. Mine expanded because of two things. One was that I didn't block off the holes where the door hinges attach and the second was that I went for a drive somewhat shortly after applying the foam and it forced air into that area pretty well.

I would only use the two-part foam if I sealed off the holes completely. I'm not certain that the expansion foam really does a lot in this project.
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Old 07-13-2009, 03:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The foams really do help to deaden noise in the larger hollow body cavities. However, IMO the use of closed cell padding has the greatest effect on stopping the transmission of noise into the cabin.

Foaming is good for quieting large hollow spaces which have a drum barrel effect in amplifying vibrations. The two part foam is designed to fill these closed voids, and as such, it doesn't expand as much as the Home Depot foams. When used in narrow confinements, where there is inadequate bracing, some expansion foams can actually deform body panels as they expand. Also it comes in different densities; from two pounds/cubic foot thru eight pounds. The lighter is a better choice hear.

Nice work though. Are you keeping track of total weight gain by individual phase?
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