Phase 4: Firewall and floors
- Materials:
- 1/2" Closed Cell Foam (like Ensolite)
- 1/4" Closed Cell Foam (like Ensolite)
- Polyfil
- 92 Tack Spray Adhesive
- Tools:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 8mm socket
- Socket Wrench
- Latex gloves
- box knife
- exacto knife
- measuring tape
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- Flathead screwdriver
Goals: The total project should be under $100, under 50lbs, reduce road noise by 3-7dBA and eliminate rattles
Intro: Since the front wheel wells and road noise from the floor arguably generate the most combined noise in the car, this part of the project is absolutely essential. Almost half of the front wheel wells sit right against the firewall.
**This is an all day project and you won't be able to drive the car until it's done so keep that in mind when starting.
**Disclaimer: I am not responsible if you should damage your car in any way following these instructions. I am simply writing down what I did. If you should choose to mimic these instructions, you do so at your own risk.
Step 1: Prep
You will be pulling a lot of screws and pop-in plastic rivets. I highly recommend labeling sandwich baggies with locations and keeping things seperate. It will save you a lot of heartache.
The prep part of this phase is the most difficult and time consuming. Start by removing the glove box and center dash cover. You can remove the dash like I did to fix rattles but I won't cover that in this project since I found out it adds at least 2 hours to the project. I did fix my rattle though!
Remove the stereo head unit and then attack the seats. There are four bolts to each seat and you will need to remove the seatbelt bolt on the side of the seat.
Remove the plastic molding that covers the seatbelt assembly and the one that is on the bottom of the doorway. If you have rear speakers you will need to pull those. You will need to remove the covers over the emergency brake and the shifter boot.
next pull out the pop-in plastic rivets behind the seats that keep the carpeting in place. The storage net can be removed by carefully prying off the plastic covers (be careful, if you pry the wrong side they will break). Behind those plastic covers are small screws. Pull the carpeting covering the speakers and back panel... I just drape it over the back. I believe there are 8 10mm bolts that you will want to remove to get at the compartment to fill with poly-fil.
remove the carpeting which covers the floor and firewall. Rather than unbolt the center consol from the floor I recommend using your exacto knife to cut a slit in it to remove... it will be covered later by the shifter boot/cup holder.
once you get everything out, take a vaccum cleaner and remove all the dirt and grime. Wipe down the floor and firewall with a damp rag, then dry it.
Step 2: Firewall
Ok, now starting with the driver side firewall, place 1/2" closed cell foam all the way up. If you place a pillow on the seat beam and lay on your back you should have access to the firewall all the way up. Just like with the rest of the car, spray down the existing sound deadening material with the high tack adhesive then let it set for 5 minutes. Cut your foam in 6" strips, spray it with adhesive and fit it.
**There are two areas on the drivers side that you need to leave open. One is the 1" strip behind the clutch pedal. To find this, depress the clutch pedal to the firewall and then using your knife, cut out that strip so that the clutch pedal can be pushed all the way to the firewall. The second area is behind the gas pedal. Push the gas pedal to the floor and cut out a little block where it goes so that the gas pedal is not obstructed.
On the passenger side, cover the entire firewall except the black metal plate. Behind this is the Ecu and it should not be covered so that later someone can get access to it if need be.
Step 3: Center island and below the doors
Using 1/2" foam custom cut and place foam. You might note the position of the e-brake cover and cut a notch in the foam around this. It will allow the cover to sit properly. I had to put another screw into the front of this cover to get it to not obstruct the e-brake. Cover the sidewalls below the door panels with 1/2" foam as well.
**with any extra 1/2" foam you have I would recommend starting at the front floor and working your way back until you run out. If I hadn't run over my budget and did the project again, I would probably use 1" thick pad on the floors.
Step 4: floors
Apply 1/4" closed cell foam to the entire floor area. Do not cover the beam that the seats bolt onto. Start at the back 4" up the backwall and place the foam. On non-vertical sections you can save yourself adhesive by just spraying down the matting and immediately placing it rather than spraying both the floor and the matting.
Once you've worked yourself up to the firewall, use remaining foam to place a second layer on the floor. I ended up with a 1/2" layer everywhere and 3/4" in a few spots.
Step 5: Polyfil
Stuff poly-fil into the rear compartments until it starts spilling out. Then bolt up the two bottom corners of the aluminum backing and finish filling. Behind the passenger seat there is a plastic duct. Do not obstruct this. Its part of the ventilation system for the battery. Once you have enough poly-fil in there (I used a bag and a half), then bolt up the rest of the aluminum backing and reinstall rear speakers (if you have them).
Step 5: Put it all back together
OK, so just reverse the process that you used to uninstall everything. If you cut holes into the 1/2" foam where the plastic pop-in rivets go then it shouldn't be difficult to find them again.
Results:
OK, so of all the phases so far, I think that by far this has shown the best results. The car now sounds much much quieter during in town driving and significantly quieter on rough roads at highway speed. I would now compare the sound to most other cars I've owned rather than significantly louder. The polyfil behind the rear panel has now enhanced the crispness of the sound system. With all the sound deadening it now sounds like the music is all around me rather than localized. My major rattles are pretty much gone too.
Upcoming
- Phase 5: Rear wheel wells (postponed)