Location: Colorful Colorado pre-MIMA LMPG=65.5 U.S. post-MIMA LMPG=71+ U.S.
Posts: 299
You probably won't get a measureable increase in MPG, but it won't hurt either.
It will save you money, not in gas, but because 1 filter will last the life of the car.
I have a K&N in my 1988 Dodge truck. I installed it in 1990 and I've used the same filter for nearly 20 years now.
Wash, rinse, ( add a tiny amount of clean thin oil ) and repeat!
I recommend them for $ savings, and land-fill reductions.
Had one on the car since a week after I bought it.
I noticed no real difference in mileage or performance. Maybe there was a tiny difference but it was too slight to notice. As mentioned, the main benefit of the filter is that it is washable. And K&N filters spec a surprisingly long service interval between washings.
I have a Scanguage and usually have Throttle Position showing. I try to stay near 20% throttle max, sometimes get to 30% on the intersate non-drafting. Highest I have ever run was 40% for a short time trying to catch a draft.
With that in mind, I cant see where a better air filter will matter, not even thinging about the engine's computer running mixture.
Now if you are racing or looking for horepower, that is different. But running in lean burn at 20% throttle. .
Oh, once a month or so, I blow out my air filter with an air compressor, blows out all sorts of duct and crud..
You probably won't get a measureable increase in MPG, but it won't hurt either.
However, it might increase engine wear. K&N air filters typically don't filter as well. Head over to Bob is the Oil Guy and check out the multitude of used oil analyses showing increased engine wear from K&N air filters.
I would suggest a foam filter(Uni or other) and use No Toil products on it.The filter cleaner is biodegradable,you can even wash it in your kitchen sink and the filter oil is vegetable based.I've been using this setup for 2 years and will never go back to K&N or other cotton based filters.
However, it might increase engine wear. K&N air filters typically don't filter as well. Head over to Bob is the Oil Guy and check out the multitude of used oil analyses showing increased engine wear from K&N air filters.
-Bryan
THX for the info, bryan..
I too have had one sitting in my insight's trunk for the past three months, I bought it on ebay, but it was supposed to be a cabin filter, and the seller completely flaked. I was going to put the K&N air filter in but just ran across this and then saw your link. Good. i can get rid of it and forget about it.
I have a "vacuum gauge" on my air filter housing and it tells me when the filter is getting clogged. Though I have yet to see it indicate a clogging problem, but I clean the filter regularly....take it out and beat it on the brick wall beside the car....
__________________
Jim Isbell
2000, 5 speed, 250,000 miles
"If you are not living on the edge, well then,
you are just taking up too much space."
I have a "vacuum gauge" on my air filter housing and it tells me when the filter is getting clogged. Though I have yet to see it indicate a clogging problem, but I clean the filter regularly....take it out and beat it on the brick wall beside the car....
K&N air filter?
Hallo Jim
do you use a regular Honda OEM air filter or a K&N ?
what is the brand of this "vacuum gauge" which you have mentioned and where do I get?
Best regards and THX in advance
Berne
mail to: <b_hausmann@yahoo.de>
You can make a 'cheap' vacuum gauge with a clear plastic hose and a small portion of water.
We have these at work and they are made by Dwyer, and cost probably about $30 each. They are way too big for an application like this and overkill since the air box vacuum will never get to 36 inches water.
We recently had a Radon evacuation system installed in our basement, and again, the technician who installed the system, placed a small 4 inch water manometer near the sump pump to ensure that the evacuation fan is running at all times. It pulls about 2 inches of water vacuum.
AutoSpeed did an article about this some two months ago, and they used a Dwyer Magnehelic vacuum gauge, but at last memory, they are over $100 each new, although you may be able to find on used online much cheaper. Beware however, as they have a thin rubber diaphragm that *can* be damaged by someone who is careless with it's use. They normally have a fail safe pressure of 15 psi, but still things happen.
It would be real easy to make a 'plastic tube manometer' and leave it in the garage, maybe even mount it to the wall.
1) drive the car in
2) attach the manometer hose to a vacuum tap on the air filter box
3) get a baseline reading
4) and check for this reading to increase over time
5) when the filter is really dirty, record the maximum reading
6) replace old with new
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