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Old 01-21-2013, 02:15 AM   #1481 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dabrowski 2000 View Post
I believe they are added to increase the likely hood that the pack will stay put if the car gets in an accident.
I think they are actually to stabalise the MDM inverter unit which is a heavy block on a narrow footprint with 4 fairly spindly bolts on aluminium alloy casing and liable to snap off the mounting lugs especially in a side bump. IRRC the IPU cover does not bolt to the MDM whereas it does to the battery via the computer mounting alloy holder to help secure that.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:09 AM   #1482 (permalink)
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Bottom line, it is better to have them in there to stiffen up the assembly than to leave them out.
I probably have a set in my car part trailer if you cant find any, let me know.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:38 AM   #1483 (permalink)
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Default grid charger/balancer

I am thinking this should be simple but how do I discharge? I have everything up and running but not sure how to kick off the discharge cycle.


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Old 01-21-2013, 11:02 AM   #1484 (permalink)
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Default grid charger/balancer

Found it.


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Old 01-29-2013, 09:24 AM   #1485 (permalink)
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My advise to all new charger owners is to sit down with the charger and the operating instructions after watching the operation video, and get familiar with navigating the keyboard, finding and editing the variables, and the option bits. Then go out and give your pack a reconditioning.

Videos for DIY programming of the grid charger upgrades are linked to from here:
http://99mpg.com/Projectcars/programmingadapter/

The hex code will be on my website for downloading here:
http://99mpg.com/Data/resources/down...erv2.8code.hex


Other things in the works:
Prius support is only a circuit board away.
We found that the Prius blower will draw over the 3A max that the charger 12V supply can provide if the 12V is relay connected to the blower.
The Prius normally ramps the blower speed up slowly so I had to design a new blower control card that has a power mosfet, snubber diode, and a PWM controlled ramp generator to do the same. this board will replace the existing blower board on the Prius harness. The other thing that was changed (V2.8 ) was the mode 6 cycle mode will ask if you want to use voltage match for the reconditioning.
This feature can be used on any car, but is must important in the prius.
You press start and have a short delay where you can select V match, if you do nothing, a regular mode 6 will run.
with V match on, the pack initial voltage is recorded, before the current starts to flow, and after the full reconditioning, instead of stopping after the last cycle recharge finishes, the discharger will come on, and discharge to the same voltage as when the procedure was started, and then stop. I have an offset in the code from this v match, so the bounce back in voltage that happens when the discharge is stopped can be compensated for.
This will let the car see the same approximate voltage on the pack as when the process started, so no reset after charging should be required.
I finally have my prototype Prius harness installed in my Prius, and will give the pack it's first in car reconditioning and see if the pack gets stronger. Pretty cold here lately, so it is not the best time of year for a test, but with my EV button, I should be able to get some feel for increased capacity.
A final note: the USPS has raised their prices for all shipping, so the new orders starting today will need to use the new order form which has the new rates.

Last edited by Mike Dabrowski 2000; 01-29-2013 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #1486 (permalink)
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Hey everyone,

I have a grid charger and discharger and am interested in offering charging/reconditioning services to anyone willing to bring their car to me.

I am located in Medford, NJ - about 45 minutes from both Philadelphia and Trenton

I just got the charger from Mike so it is the most recent version which does high and low current charge as well as discharging. I can do overnight charge or run through the reconditioning cycle over a weekend.

Cost for the service I have yet to figure out, I will try to be reasonable but of course it depends on the amount of work involved: for example, if you have a permanently installed harness purchased from Mike Dabrowski in your car, it is not much work for me to hook up the charger and do an overnight charge. A full reconditioning charge requires more of my time to babysit the thing. If you need help installing the harness I can do that too.
If I can get a few people that want charges but don't want to get the harness permanently installed in their car I will buy a shop harness and fan attachments from Mike in order to service those people. Using the shop harness of course takes a little more time since it involves some work to get to the battery and set it up.
I also have a basic code reader (not the SoC reset device) that can read and erase OBDII trouble codes. Just ordered an rs232 cable for the laptop so I will work on getting set up to grab data from the charger and put it in Excel so you can see how the battery does.

While I am not a professional mechanic I have a fair amount of experience working on cars as well as basic electrical knowledge. But please understand that I am not offering battery repair services here--it's important that you understand the capabilities and limitations of the charger and what it can and can't do for a pack.

Send me a message if interested and we can talk further.

Also if you think there's somewhere else I can post this let me know.
Hey JRue. Are you still offering the service? I'm looking to do a full reconditioning on my 03 Civic.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:09 PM   #1487 (permalink)
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Just finished clearing the 30" of NEMO snow off the driveway, wow that was a big storm. Luckly we did not loose power, and it was fairely light snow.
Have started the lengthy process of cell level cycling of the MaxIMA sticks.
As a control, I have retreved a couple of the best sticks from my old pack that were graphed several years ago here:http://99mpg.com/blog/whatactuallygoeswr/
Stick 13 and stick 7
These old sticks had 160K on them, and have just sat since 3/27 2010 when I did the test.
The cell voltages were all at ~ .5V before I started, and both sticks have responded to a single soak charge by coming back to life. They do better on the second cycle, and show about the same cell condition as when I did the test in 2010. which reinforces my opinion that sitting idle even for nearly 3 years does not cause a stick to deteriorate.

Learning some other interesting things.
The first thing that jumped out was that the famous DeltaV effect seems to be mostly a temperature effect.
I have a small fan on each cell, so the cooling is quite good. When topping at 1.5A, and at 400ma, the voltage will plateau, and then the temp will plateau, but no delta V is seen.
If the fan is turned off, the voltage drops as the temp rises, and if the fan s again turned on, the temp drops and the voltage goes back up to the same place as when all was at thermal equilibrium.
This would seem to indicate that if the charge current applied is small enough (350ma) and the pack fan is running, that one will not see a delta V effect as the temp will rise just enough for the fan to dissipate the generated heat, and then the pack will simply plateau.
One will only see the Delta V if the temperature is allowed to rise by inadequate cooling.

The other effect that seems to be clear, is that the topping voltage at a 350ma current is a good indicator of the cells condition. the higher the voltage that the cells top off at, the weaker the cell and the higher the Internal resistance.
I am being very thorough, so it takes half a day to do one stick, and I am preparing a blog where I will get into the analysis of what I see, in the graphs.

The charge rates with my fixture are 32A, 1.5A, and 400ma, and the discharge rate is ~82A, dropping to ~ 75A at the end.
Now that we have so many people working on their packs, I figured it was time to get a better handle as to what it all means.
Once the 20 MaxIMA sticks are recorded and tested at the cell level, I will put the pack in the car, run a couple of reference reconditioning cycles with the charger, and then use the pack for a year, pull the pack and run the complete series again, to see how things change.
My car may not be the best test vehicle, as I am tending to drive the Prius when I need to go out, so we will see what makes sense next week when the test are finished.

Last edited by Mike Dabrowski 2000; 02-09-2013 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:48 PM   #1488 (permalink)
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Mike,

Did the cheap grid charger/balancer ever get produced? I read the first few pages of the thread then skipped to last. If so, was the price point around $100 as you had originally anticipated?
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:57 AM   #1489 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dabrowski 2000 View Post
....The other effect that seems to be clear is that the topping voltage at a 350ma current is a good indicator of the cell's condition. The higher the voltage that the cells top off at, the weaker the cell and the higher the internal resistance....
I noticed something similar when I cycled my sticks. Even after the sticks sit for a while voltage is generally highest for the worst ones. After 5 charge/discharge cycles, graphing the results, you can more or less tell which subpacks are the worst performers. Among the 5 that were clearly the worst, 4 had the highest voltages among all subpacks, 1 had the third highest voltage. Among those 5, 3 had the highest internal resistances (based on my not-so-accurate testing and calculations)...
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:48 AM   #1490 (permalink)
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The cheap charger is DIY
http://99mpg.com/Data/resources/down...dchargerv1.pdf

Just finished stick 20 on the MAxIMA sticks, and will try to compile a blog with the results later today.
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