As I found out before though, the BCM must be started BEFORE you start a charger, or it will not count the charge. Any easy way to delay the charger(s) for a few seconds? I think I might just need to install a separate switch for the RS-25-12 from the rest of the charger.
Thanks again!
As mentioned previously this is because the BCM calibrates it's very accurate current sensor to what it believes to be zero amps every time it turns on. If charger is on first then BCM sets sensor to zero when in fact current is already flowing. So current flow is ignored. In fact if you then turned charger off and left BCM on it would register a negative current drain and soc would slowly fall even though no current is flowing.
Since the Radioshack resistors out of the question. Which is a good site to buy the resistor you recommend 6.8 Ohm - 5W?
Thank you
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My fill-ups are only gas worth $10 ≈ 2.8 gallons
Keeps the weight low, passing Avr. 175 miles
Worst $10 tank was 50.1 MPG ≈ 140 miles
Ohms law
Volts = Amps x Ohms
Amps = Volts / Ohms
Ohms = Volts / Amps
Watts = (Amps X Amps) X Ohms
The charger puts out CC 350ma, so with a 6.8 ohm, the resistor will have
volts = amps x ohms
2.38 = .350 x 6.8
watts = (amps x amps) x ohms
.833 = (.350 x .350) x 6.8
2.38 - 1.2 = 1.18 excess
ohms = volts / amps
118 = 1.18 / .01
watts
.012 = (.01 x .01) x 118
lets run the numbers for the 8 ohm.
volts = amps x ohms
2.8 = .350 x 8
watts = (amps x amps) x ohms
.98 (.350 x .350) x 8
1.6 = 2.8 - 1.2
ohms = volts / amps
160 = 1.6 / .01
watts
.016 = (.01 x .01) x 160
Now this is mine calculation based on the above information:
I have 5 ohm resistor and Red LED 1.7V and 20mA
volts = amps x ohms
1.75 = .350 x 5
watts = (amps x amps) x ohm
0.613 = (.350 x .350) x 5
1.75 - 1.7 = 0.05 excess volts
ohms = volts / amps
2.5 = 0.05 / .02
Is this a good solution or am I wrong?
__________________
My fill-ups are only gas worth $10 ≈ 2.8 gallons
Keeps the weight low, passing Avr. 175 miles
Worst $10 tank was 50.1 MPG ≈ 140 miles
Good in theory, except for the pulse of higher current when the unit is first turned on under load, which would pop the LED just like it did the 1 Watt LED.
Say the current pulse hits 1 A during startup, your 5 ohm resistor would have 3 times the 1.7V across it,or 5.1V and so would the LED, which would probably pop the first time.
The resistor in the LED circuit would allow the 10ma nominal to reach 30ma during the pulse, which the LED can safely take for the short pulse with no issues.
No LED resistor, the LED sees 1A pulse. Possibily Magic smoke?
With resistor, the LED sees 30ma pulse. No Magic smoke.
Leds current does not change linearly with increased voltage like a resistor, they act more like zener diodes. As the voltage across the 5 ohm resistor rises, the led current will shoot up very quickly absorbing all the energy over the 1.7V
The Prius NHW10 crowd has a few Techno S2000 scanners and an (incomplete) English translation for it available now. That'll go a long way to help fixing them and keeping them healthy, but we still need a grid charger....
Among the many other things I am doing, progress is being made on the charger every day.
I have the software pretty much finished, except for the serial I/O, the final hardware design prototype is 90% finished, the internal harness for the Insight and Civics have been prototyped, and I hope to get the chassis design and drawings to several sheet metal fab places for quotation next week.
The control panel design is also nearing the quote stage.
The circuit boards will be ordered after the first of the year.
Once I have those quotes I will be able to firm up my cost for parts.
When the chassis and PC boards arrive, I will build several units of each type to see what the labor cost will be, and then I will be ready to start selling them, but not until I come up with a solid liability waver, and do some very comprehensive install instructions, after doing several installs.
Sorry this is taking so long, but I had a lot of distractions, and had to learn the C language.
The NHW10 prius with the >300V charger requirement will still need an external voltage booster.
The devils in the details, and I am being very careful to not forget any.
Jim,
Your question comes at a perfect time.
I have spent a good part of last week building up plug in adapter boards, joysticks, displays, and testing only to end up with the last 6 MIMA systems that are ready to ship.
If I add up the hours invested, and the cost of the parts, as I stated before, I could make more money working at Burgerking.
I don't think I will try to use up the remaining boards by building more MIMA plug in systems, as it will simply take too much of my time.
So the PLUG in MIMA system as it presently exist will end when the last 6 are sold.
The DIY kit will continue to be available while I have boards, but will not include the parts.
Sorry.
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