OK, I just bought another (#3) 2000 5-speed. This is a low mile (45k) car that has spent it's whole life in Pinellas Park, FL. A one owner car. The car was traded in, and I bought it from a Honda dealer. I can't get it's entire service records, as 2 Honda dealers have seviced it since new (the first from 2000-2006, then the second from 06-now.) The second dealer faxed me the copies of any and all service work done to the car. The first refuses, despite me being the current owner (losers.) Any way, I flew down to Clearwater about 10 days ago, and drove the car for an hour or so, to check if it charged, discharged properly. The car would not charge above 2/3 tops, and it took the full hour to do so. The regen worked fine. I bargained this "major" fault into the price, and got it for what I would consider a decent price. So now the 1300 mile trip home: (this was ALL highway speeds 60-75mph the entire way.) The first 200 miles it started working perfectly, it charged all the way up, and discharged properly. Then 300 miles of the same problem (2/3 charge max, and a 50-75 miles to get it back up to that point.) The next 500 miles, it worked perfectly again (when going through the mountains of West Virginia,) charging and discharging properly. Then the last 300 miles of the same problem (2/3 charge max, and a 50-75 miles to get it back up to that point,) but with the added disadvantage of the regen braking not working at all, despite only 1/3 or half SOC. According to the paperwork I have from the one dealer (from 06-present,) at 38k miles, a "control unit" part #1k000-phm-000 was replaced. It was marked as a "failed part." 2400 miles later (at 40,550 niles,) the same part failed again, and was replaced under warranty again. Then just 2k miles later (at 42,500) the "conrol module-engine" #37820-phm-345 was replaced under warranty. So, my questions are: does anyone know if any of these components have to do with the charging system, bms, etc. And, whether they do or not, can anyone shed any light on what the problem with my charging system might be (which component?) I don't think it is the battery itself, the way it charged fully, and discharged properly for hunderds of miles. I think only the battery would still be under warranty; it doesn't pertain to any of the other charging components, does it? I don't like the intermittent-ness of the problem either, as it might make it tougher to diagnose! HELP! Any advise would be appreciated! Thanks! Chris
1k000-phm-000 is a really old MCM the -000 denotes first (2000) version. The current version is -070
37820-phm-345 is (I believe) a BCM / MCM pair from 2005.
It sounds like the idiots replaced the MCM and matched up a new (at the time) -050 vintage MCM with the original -000 vintage BCM. Then when it didn't work properly, they replaced it again, and then when it STILL didn't work, they figured out that they had to replace the BCM with one that matched the new MCM.
As far as your battery not charging beyond 2/3, it is going to need a replacement (or rebuild) and you've got to hope it fails before the end of next year because you may only have 45K miles, but you have almost 10 years. When the end draws near, you will start to see recals and they should lead to a P1447 and an IMA light.
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2000 MT #4227 175K miles - Citrus Yellow, BetterBattery
The battery may be fine, it could be just be the bcm / mcm mismatch like ogre said. Hard to tell without seeing what the battery voltages are at. Typically the car will consider the pack empty at 140 - 145 volts and full at ~169 volts plus. If you are driving 75 miles and still seeing 2/3 soc I would think the current monitoring is either off or it simply isn't charging, but I would also think it would throw a code. Measuring pack voltages would be the first start.
Another code you might get is P1576. This occurs when the battery voltage is too low. I got it when I had a dead stick and two weak ones. But if you get it before the warranty runs out then it should come with an IMA light and will be cause for warranty replacement.
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Jim Isbell
2000, 5 speed, 250,000 miles
"If you are not living on the edge, well then,
you are just taking up too much space."
The battery may be fine, it could be just be the bcm / mcm mismatch like ogre said. Hard to tell without seeing what the battery voltages are at. Typically the car will consider the pack empty at 140 - 145 volts and full at ~169 volts plus. If you are driving 75 miles and still seeing 2/3 soc I would think the current monitoring is either off or it simply isn't charging, but I would also think it would throw a code. Measuring pack voltages would be the first start.
Well the BCM and MCM are matched now and have been for four years. The problem is that he's still under warranty.
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2000 MT #4227 175K miles - Citrus Yellow, BetterBattery
Well the BCM and MCM are matched now and have been for four years. The problem is that he's still under warranty.
Must have misread. I would still start with checking pack voltages. With the system behaving like described it should be throwing a code. I would also check the car with a reader to see if there are any hidden codes.
I brought my code reader when I looked at the car; no codes. I read it again after test driving it for over an hour; again no codes. Then the 1300 mile trip home; again no codes. I can't see it being the battery pack, as I mentioned, it charged and discharged properly for hundreds of miles. Now that I think of it, half way through the trip, we stopped for about 20 minutes. This was one of the points that the car went from charging properly, to not charging properly (after the car was turned off, then restarted 20 minutes later.) It obviously will have to have my local dealer look at it. I just wish I was getting a code(s)!
It obviously will have to have my local dealer look at it. I just wish I was getting a code(s)!
If you've checked for codes, why not reset the IMA and relearn the battery? It might solve the problem.
With the car off, remove the 4th fuse from left on the bottom row of the fuseblock near the driver's left ankle. Wait 20 seconds and reinstall the fuse.
Remove the No. 15 (40 A) fuse (EPS control unit) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
With the transmission in neutral (M/T) or Park (CVT), and the clutch
released, start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,500 rpm until
the IMA battery level indicator shows at least 50 percent charge.
Turn off the engine, and reinstall the No.15 fuse.
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2000 MT #4227 175K miles - Citrus Yellow, BetterBattery
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Battery Charging Problem- Need Advise!
