Adding Enginer PHEV system. - Page 10

Cobb · 08-08-2010, 10:08 AM

I drive any where from 26 miles a day to alnost 300. Id want something to last that. I guess 2 or 4kw wont cut it? I want to max fuel economy, but not carry so much weight in batteries it hurt it.

I just can not believe 10% was the net benefit, I am sure with more careful driving vs setting the cruse control to the posted limit could beat that.

So,in that case are we looking at 8 or 16kw?

RobertSmalls · 08-08-2010, 10:59 AM

Size it so you can make good use of the battery during your 26mi commute, and live with charge sustaining mode when you do 300mi.

How long of a drive does it take you to make good use of the 0.5KWh of usable capacity that comes with your car? I find it takes me a good 10 mi after leaving the expressway to make efficient use of my charge without MIMA, meaning with my current software and typical routes, I wouldn't benefit much from additional capacity.

The cells I was looking at are around 23lbs per KWh, so you can see that even 8KWh is going to have some impact on your FE, and 16KWh will eat up most of your remaining payload capacity.

rayholan · 08-08-2010, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobb

I drive any where from 26 miles a day to alnost 300. Id want something to last that. I guess 2 or 4kw wont cut it? I want to max fuel economy, but not carry so much weight in batteries it hurt it.

I just can not believe 10% was the net benefit, I am sure with more careful driving vs setting the cruse control to the posted limit could beat that.

So,in that case are we looking at 8 or 16kw?

My 10% benefit MAY be lower than what another system of 2KW capacity can achieve. I did start out with a 4KW system, thinking more is always better - wink, wink. However, the extra weight of the additional weight of the extra 2KW (vs. a 2KW system) made for sluggish handling AND I found there invariably was one or more cells going low which would throw the warning light on the Enginer master switch mounted on the dash. This light says "you should switch off the system now to protect your cells from the damage caused by excessively low discharge". So unless you have a killer battery balancer to prevent this sort of condition, you're in the position of NOT being able to take advantage of the charge left in the other non-discharged cells anyhow.

Cobb · 08-09-2010, 12:31 AM

I own a 2010 Insight and from my math, 100.8 volts and 5.75 amps means my oem battery is .580kw. So, looks like a 2kw is like 4 times my original battery.

The i2 has in my opinion the IMA system to make up the low end of the motor for acelerating from 0-40mph, beyond that you have to wing it on gas or gas while recharging the pack. You seldom can depend on the IMA to be there for you and if the MID reads 100+ degrees, it wont work.

I live on top of a hill and the posted limit is 25mph. I coast down, idle up and around. Mile and half later I pull out across 4 lanes of traffic to a 40mph road. I go down a second hill, then up again to an on ramp. Total distance is less than 2 miles. Many cases I loose the IMA pulling out into traffic across 4 lanes. If I luck out, the hill at the bottom gets me and I end up recharging the battery and accelerating. Here is the video as it happens a few times a week YouTube - ‪Hybrid battery pooped out‬&lrm;

Many cases, like when its over 100 degrees out I see regen being done at start up as I idle out of the drivewaywhere I work, here is that video YouTube - ‪Charging at start?‬&lrm;

Other cases a slight grade less than a mile at 45mph can drain the pack.

If the temp is over 100, no less than a mile from my home as I start to go up a ramp it goes into regen while driving.

So, basically Id like to add on enough to eliminate that.

Purplegate · 08-09-2010, 08:49 AM

The A123 Pack Peter built for his I1 seems the sweetest so far. 20Ah for the I2 would be plenty due to the lower voltage. You should just check the I2 pack size. The A123 cells were rectangular. Looking at Peter’s pictures, they seem to perfectly fit in the I1 pack, like if they were designed for it. It would be nice if the same can be done for the I2. We will just need someone to take some measurements.

But again, without MIMA, I’m not sure how efficient it becomes to have such electric capacity. If it’s only to overpass your ridge without recalls, I think it’s a too expensive solution. If you target longer trips with possible assist all along, then 20Ah is a much better choice. Personally, I would go for it…. But with MIMA

retepsnikrep · 08-09-2010, 09:56 AM

If someone wants to gift me an I2 and say $10000 then i'll have a look at the I2 project

RobertSmalls · 08-09-2010, 10:00 AM

With lower voltage, you'd need more Ah to get the same energy storage capacity. Plus, the second-gen is a car on a larger scale than the first-gen.

You don't have MIMA, and that will make it difficult to run in charge depleting mode. However, when your SoC gauge is near full, I'll bet the I2 is assist-happy. If you can keep fooling the SoC, you might do all right.

Cobb · 08-10-2010, 01:42 AM

ray, thanks. Missed your post last time, think we have a 900lb cargo capacity vs 400 of the i1.

purple, that would be my replacement pack, however it seems you can feed the battery from the top from a 2nd one.

Peter, I may drive to Mike D 2K next year and see what can be done with a prius pack. I think you are more then 600 miles from Richmond, VA.

Robert, yes, the fuller the battery is the more assist it uses up to about 40mph. Its as if Honda used the IMA to make up for the lack of torque at lower rpms vs a hybrid car. After its down from 100-90% the assist drops off vs maxing it out. Ihad considered a grid charger to at least allow me to pull out of traffic where i live vs driving 3 miles out of my way through 2 stop lights. Then it occured to me that maybe we can add to the pack to help else where? Some days I drive 18 miles at 36mph, so I could almost run on assist.

Any idea the feed or amps the kit you have puts out? Is it constant or does it vary with load?

Interesting..... According to engineer.us nominal voltage is 101, range of operation is between 95 and 115 volts. They set the plug in kit to 115 volts and attach it at the breaker on top the battery module. The converter is rated at 3000 watts. So, 26 amps?

The Macgyvor insid eme just cant stop thinking that an inverter puts out abot the same voltage and would need a bridge to make it dc.

retepsnikrep · 10-06-2010, 05:48 PM

Ray

Have we got an update round up or current position on this? Keeping all our options open is important. Overall impression etc. Thanks Peter

rayholan · 10-06-2010, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retepsnikrep

Ray

Have we got an update round up or current position on this? Keeping all our options open is important. Overall impression etc. Thanks Peter

Well Peter, in short, my experience with the Enginer people was very positive. My experience with the Enginer system much less so. I have returned the system for a refund. Thus, I'm an "ex" now. PM for details if you like.