This is the control line that will turn the Boost on or off.
the output is really an open collector transistor to ground, so to test it you will want to measure from +12 to the violet wire with a volt meter, or better yet, connect an led in series with a 400-600 ohm resistor to the violet AUX wire. The led will light everytime the output is pulled low. You may be able to get an led with resistor already set for 12V at autoparts or radioskack.
Put the led where you can see it while driving.
If option 4 is set for brake light control, the led will light whenever regen is > 15A
If option4 is set for boost control, the led will light when you are not in assist or regen.
The logic may be reversed, so try it and see.
Mike,
What if we use the Motor Assist signal to activate the converter (max 170V 17A). Perhaps then it would be "undetectable" by the computers.
I think you guys are overthinking this. If you apply your boost to the points I suggested the computer will be unaware of any current flow and as a result the Soc gauge won't show an increase in charge, but the workaround is to stay above 3 bars (3 bar bug). The battery takes a charge, the voltage comes up, shouldn't produce any codes. If the voltage comes up hight enough (~168 volts) and holds long enough then you will get a positive recal.
I think you guys are overthinking this. If you apply your boost to the points I suggested ....
For myself, and the audience playing along at home... care to give a link or post a labled picture of the points on you suggested?
__________________
Eric Powers
Hybridfest Green Drive Expo - A Hybrid Electric Car Show and More! http://www.GreenDriveExpo.com
Third Weekend in July. Madison, WI
Save the date!
I'm pretty sure these are the point, and the picture is an edited version off of Mikes site. The + point is one of the stainless bolts that connects directly to the most + battery end post and sits right before the first current sensor. There is usually a rubber plug over this point. Connecting past the current sensor results in codes.
The - point is the negative top post. This connects to a conductor that runs directly to the most - battery end post.
These are the same points I use for my parallel connection.
Mark,
Your parallel pack is charged from the grid, and you use it up on your commute.
A boost system may not behave the same way.
Eric will be charging his single IMA pack on the fly,from the boost system,at a low rate,that he can easily exceed with heavy assist, and without the SOC guage showing where he is, I fear he will get into the 3 bar zone pretty quickly.
On the other hand your parallel packs will track as they discharge, and can easily handle up to 100A.
With a boost system that runs through the current sensor, in theory one can run for as long as the boost can keep up with the rate of use. The SOC is always showing the correct SOC so you know where you are. I can drive for hours with no codes with the present configuration, with only an occasional IMA code if I get to quick with the joystick.
I always know where the SOC is on both batteries.
From that perspective I can see your reasoning for wanting to track current in.
The way I was looking at it .... you start the boost as soon as you start tapping the battery to essentially try to keep it charged, or at least to keep the pack voltage from dropping too fast. This would keep you in the +3 bar range longer, and as Pete showed the 3 bar bug will hold well past 20Ah of discharge. However using the booster pack as a charger you would need to be careful of overcharging the main pack, or is there a safeguard built into the system to avoid this?
For fun I tossed the components into the rear area of the car just to see how they would look. In no way is it meant to show the final installation. I just was tossing things in there so I could get a feeling of the scale of things.
__________________
Eric Powers
Hybridfest Green Drive Expo - A Hybrid Electric Car Show and More! http://www.GreenDriveExpo.com
Third Weekend in July. Madison, WI
Save the date!
For fun I tossed the components into the rear area of the car just to see how they would look. In no way is it meant to show the final installation. I just was tossing things in there so I could get a feeling of the scale of things.
Eric,
Remember that you need to keep some ventilation from the underside of the battery box to the spare tire area. The battery and IPU exhaust there. If you block it, you will generate a P1448 error. Do you have enough clearance above the batteries? If not, can you lay them on their side?
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