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Old 12-18-2009, 12:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Lifebatt 8ah OEM Battery Case Install

New thread to document progress of this project.

52 x Lifebatt XPS 8 ah cells arrived today, very prompt and nicely packed.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifeBatt8ahCells.jpg

Just like an early Christmas present!

Anyway I cut down two of the supplied bolts and I can see that using short lengths of threaded rod they can screw together very easily in three's. Need to get some of that this week.

The holes in the battery case are just too small (1mm) to accept the cells as is, so I will need to buy a 38mm taper drill to widen them very slightly.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells004.jpg

You can see the 3 cell lifebatt and a nimh subpack side by side. The Lifebatt is about 25mm longer but will still just fit within the confines of the OEM case when Inserted. The orange connector board will not be fitted on the ends so that gives a bit more length.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells006.jpg


www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells010.jpg

Anyway it is sub zero in my shed so no more work until I get a 38mm taper drill.

Last edited by retepsnikrep; 12-18-2009 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 12-18-2009, 12:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, they are pretty, all gold colored and very neatly packed. How will you be connecting them together at the ends?
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Old 12-18-2009, 01:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Well, they are pretty, all gold colored and very neatly packed. How will you be connecting them together at the ends?
I will be screwing them together in threes and using copper busbars (supplied) to interconnect adjacent strings of three.
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Old 12-18-2009, 01:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You've got some very shiny cells Peter, the form factor of the three in a stick next to the six NiMh's in a stick are more similar than I thought they would be. I think these will produce quite a bit less heat under heavy loads in comparison to the NiMh packs, I'm interested to see how they will perform, but either way since you have the same case you still have the fan to keep these cells cool and very happy. I figure the heat they pull from the HVAC system during the winter should help out quite a bit for their winter performance too.

You've got a very nice early christmas present Peter!!
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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that is nice...

did they give torque specs for the threads?
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:58 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Did they give torque specs for the threads?
Not yet I'm waiting for an answer.

Some pics of cells ends and proposed connection methods.

Negative looks like this with a nice deep threaded stud hole into an alloy terminal. I intend threading stud into this until it reaches bottom (which is not the cell case) another cm or so of threaded stud will be left protruding.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells011.jpg

Positive looks like this and is suitable for soldering to afix bms wire if reqd IMO without damage to cell. This may be the weaker of the two ends from a thread point of view due to the depth of the threaded portion, but It must stand reasonable torque and appears to be made out of nickle plated steel.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells012.jpg

Two ends together with M6 stud inserted into Negative.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells013.jpg

Alternative BMS connection method is to sandwich a ring terminal between the cells. Now this would add slightly (2mm) to the length of the assembled cells and may increase slightly the resistance between cells. Note the exmple ring connector shown is not the right size but you get the idea. I'll probably go for this as it will make assembly easier.

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells014.jpg

Two cells screwed together with ring connecter in between!

www.solarvan.co.uk/Life/LifebattahCells015.jpg

Off to get some threaded rod now!

Last edited by retepsnikrep; 12-19-2009 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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hmm.. would it do any damage if you sanded some of the terminal away ? in that you you might be able to get the same length with the ring terminal in place
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So what is the voltage of three of these in series? It won't be the 7.2v of stock, right? Is it 11.1v (3.7x3)? Would you only use enough sticks to make up stock voltage? Why couldn't only two be used per tube and then large copper spacers to make up the room to the connector board (7.4v subpacks)? An increase in capasity while saving on weight would be great! Also, I had always thought that at least two sets in parallel would more reliable than all cells in series and there is also an unused tube in there...

Is it possible to slightly grind down the negative end to make more room? Possibly enough to use the stock orange end? I realize that that would cut down on the stronger side of the cells, but what physical stresses would these be under?

Will you be using a modified BCM? Does special care need to be taken charging these as compared to stock?

Sorry for all the questions. My thought is that it would be great if someone could offer a total cell replacement and even have it much better than stock. I bet it could be done cheaper than having the battery replaced at a dealer too.
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:57 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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hmm.. would it do any damage if you sanded some of the terminal away ? in that you you might be able to get the same length with the ring terminal in place
Difficult and would have to be machined perfectly flat, I don't think the added length will make any difference to be honest.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
So what is the voltage of three of these in series? It won't be the 7.2v of stock, right? Is it 11.1v (3.7x3)?
The nominal voltage is 3.3v per cell so 9.9v per 3 in series, although the voltage of the three doesnt matter really. it's the toal voltage of the entire pack which is relevant.

I'm going to try with 48 (158V) cells initally but could move upto 52 (171V) if required.

You have to use enough cells to cope with the high regen currents and voltages of the stock system.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
Why couldn't only two be used per tube and then large copper spacers to make up the room to the connector board (7.4v subpacks)?
That would only be 40 cells in total as there are only 20 tubes 2 per tube (Well 21 actually but that last one is blanked off) Not enough voltage for the system IMO as under heavy loads (100A) the cells will sag, but to what extent and to what effect on the system we don't know yet.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
An increase in capasity while saving on weight would be great! Also, I had always thought that at least two sets in parallel would more reliable than all cells in series and there is also an unused tube in there...
The pack will weight less than the standard 22kg.

48 cells weighs 14kg

52 cells weighs 15.5kg

There is not enough room for 48 cells x 2 strings in parallel in the stock case.

The stock case will hold upto 63 x 8ah cells if the spare blocked tube is also machined out (21 tubes x 3 cells)

We need between 48-52 cells based on my experience with Lifepo4 cells so far.

(48 or 51 cells) are the best numbers as that is 16 or 17 sticks of three cells.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
Is it possible to slightly grind down the negative end to make more room? Possibly enough to use the stock orange end? I realize that that would cut down on the stronger side of the cells, but what physical stresses would these be under?
Not practicable IMO they would have to be machined flat and cutting down would reduce thread depth as well for the studs. It may be possible to use the orange ends by using some aluminium washer/spacer on the end of the cell to extend the terminal so they fit into the orange board cell terminal recesses, we need to add about 3-5mm to enable it to butt up against the orange connector boards. A lot depends on the layout of the cells and how they line up with the connection points on the relay board. I intend using those stock connection points. The cell layout won't exactly follow the stock layout as we will only have 16 or 17 sticks, but it may be possible to keep it fairly simple. I need some 20mm diameter 3-5mm thick aluminium spacers with an M6 hole in the middle for experimenting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
Will you be using a modified BCM?
I will be testing it with the stock BCM, but the BCM fooler resistor Potential divider is required because.

1) There arent enough cells unless you use exactly 50 cells to get the correct voltage taps

2) The fooler provides a perfectly balanced battery to the BCM, so the voltage the BCM sees at the taps will be proportional to the pack total voltage. This will helps us find out if there is an overall low voltage error point.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
Does special care need to be taken charging these as compared to stock?
Yes they need an independent BMS which can overide the stock system if required.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Fyr_Fytr View Post
Sorry for all the questions. My thought is that it would be great if someone could offer a total cell replacement and even have it much better than stock. I bet it could be done cheaper than having the battery replaced at a dealer too.
I agree but that won't be me, there will only be this thread and the information it contains, people can follow my example if they wish and build there own replacement battery. They could use cheaper Headway cells if they wish as well.

Peter

Last edited by retepsnikrep; 12-19-2009 at 11:29 AM.
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