DIY: How to change fuel pump / Fuel Guage Sender

[02insight]

I had the fuel pump out, so I thought I might as well take some pictures, and maybe it will help someone else do this task. The Fuel-Pump or Senders rarely fail (unless your get in an accident/rear-ended), so I doubt this guide will get much use.

Note how many bars show on the Dash Fuel Guage. So that after you have installed it all back, you can check again to see if its the same amount of bars, just to check if you didnt accidentally damage the sender (very delicate!!)

The fuel pump is accessible without dropping the fuel tank which is convenient. This is for the Manual Insight. The CVT is probably very similar

Tools Needed:
10mm socket
Philips/Flathead Screw Driver
Hammer


Instructions:

Disconnect 12v battery and Flip IMA relay switch to OFF for safety.
Fuel Pressure can be relieved by unbolting the nut on the left side of the fuel rail.
Remove Rear speakers if you have.
Pop off the side trim panels and the runner panels.
Remove the Center Cargo Net pocket (7 Phillips screws)
Remove HandBrake Cover. (2 screws on rear sides)
Remove 6 Grey push fasteners at bottom of carpet to remove and fold back carpet over rear.
Remove Middle Panel (13 Bolts (10mm) )






Remove IMA Vent (3 10mm Bolts)
Unplug FuelPump/Sender Connector
Remove Fuel Pump access Plate (4 10mm Bolts)



Remove Fuel Hoses (Squeeze Retainer Clip and Pull pipe away)
*According to the manual, do not remove the retainer clips from the pipes or they have to be replaced*

Unscrew Plastic Retainer ring on FuelPump (Use Special honda tool, or tap the ridges with a flathead and a hammer to turn it loose)
*Make note of the position of the FuelPump Assembly. There will be marks on the right side*

[02insight]

Pull out the Fuel Pump Assembly carefully at an angle, as the Fuel Sender unit is still attached. It should pop up since its got a spring inside.



Fuel Pump assembly has 2 Connectors. One for the FuelPump and one for the sender assembly. Everything slides/pops in or out of its place. Pretty simple actually. Here are some pictures of the fuel pump. There is a Suction Filter at the bottom and another FuelFilter near the center of the assembly (not visible)



More Pictures (Click links)
Sender Unit
Connectors for Sender and Fuel Pump
Whole Fuel Pump Assembly

Installation:
Installation is reverse of removal.
When inserting the fuel pump assembly, make sure you insert it carefully with the sender attached, and at an angle. Its easier to slide the fuelPump assembly inside if the gasket is on the tank instead of the fuelPump assembly.
Make sure it is lined up with the correct marks.

Make sure the fuel hoses are connected securely, and possibly plug FuelPump connector and 12v Battery back, and do a key-on to pressurize the fuel system and check there are no leaks

[Kevin Dougherty]

Hey thanks for this. I now see why the fuel gage goes kerfluie after a light rear end accident. I especially liked the last picture.

[Hitech]

Nice job, I always wondered where the IMA fan vented to

[Rush]

Great Photos and Details... I had pack rats that chewed up a rubber hose at the top of the fuel tank/sender unit, starting leaking gas... so I took it to Honda. They said they had to lower the fuel tank to access the $1.25 piece, cost $300 for their time. Now if it happens again I will know how to do it. Thanks a lot!

Re Hitech comment about the IMA fan vent - What 02Insight means is to remove the Fan Intake, the fan actually vents back into the IMA battery area and then into the Tire well area via holes in the IMA Battery area cage.

[gilbertguy]

Great write up and pictures! Thanks for taking the time to share them.

[retepsnikrep]

Nice writeup. Thanks a lot.

[webskipper]

Anyone have a Honda Fuel Sender / Tank Nut Tool 07XAA-001010A to loan or rent?

PM Me.

[02insight]

you dont really need that tool. I just tap the ridges on the nut with a screwdriver and hammer and it drives it counterclockwise to open.

[webskipper]

I know.

I was looking for a better way to judge nut torque other than a screwdriver and a hammer. The two best tools in a man's toolbox.

I did get a large channel lock set and that made the difference. Lower half of the pump module had bent tabs. It's all back together now.

You would think that since the assembly is sprung against the tank floor that there would be a knob or something to prevent the pump module from exploding like that in a crash.

I'm letting it all dry overnight. With the fuel lines off, full tank, and 107 degrees, the fuel was expanding into the catch basin around the fuel pump. Don't want to connect the battery yet. Not in a rush.

Great Thread.