I am wondering if my 2000 Honda Insight can handle a 500w rms subwoofer without being to much drain on the battery. If not, what have some of you done to upgrade the stock electronics?
I am sure it can handle it, but it might cut into your MPG. I have a ~250watt rms sound system, and I have noticed that if its been playing for some time, there is an increase in the background charging which will cost a couple of mpg
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2002 Silver MT 200k miles LMPG - 60.1
Best Tank Distance = 722 miles @ 74.2
I believe the DC to DC converter is the limiting factor @ 50 amps or so. I run a 8" stealth sub and 500 watt alpine amp. However I have it fused at 20 amps (~240 watts). I've blown that fuse a few times, but that is better than replacing the DC to DC converter.
Hmm... if the car draws 10A and the headlights draw 15A, a 50A DC/DC would suggest you have 35A (just under 500W) to play with.
I find it unlikely you could damage the DC/DC with a 12V load. I've never heard of a DC/DC converter failure. That thing has a MASSIVE heatsink and fan on it, and it's not going to overheat. I'm sure it's got over-load protection as well, which in the worst case would drop you down to battery voltage.
I've used my DC/DC several times to charge my 35Ah 12V battery from flat to full in one sitting, a procedure that can kill some alternators.
You can always add a cap and 2nd battery. Most stereos its pulse vs continious like a light or motor. I have both in my i2, an alpine m450 amp and 2 12es with a sealed box.
I find I get better fuel economy as the hybrid battery is kept at a higher charge, so I have extra power when needed vs having a neg recal to deal with. All I have to do is turn it on and get a few beats out.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
They say there is only 30 amps overhead remaining. They also reference John Wayland (of white zombie ev and stealth sub fame). He did a monster sound system in an Insight and had to use a separate dc to dc system.
Most monster systems of tens of thousands of watts uses a second system of batteries and a 2nd alternator. Other than the blurring or images in the mirrors I havent had any problems in the i2 with my setup. The sony amp I had would cut out and over heat after 45 minutes,it was 700 watts. Withthe alpine setup, its not even warm tothe touch.
When I had silver star bulbs for high beams I notice after ten minutes of use down rural back roads the cabin started to warm up prettyfast, but no errors or codes or anything. Switching to hid resolved that.
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Enginer 4 kilowatt PHEV, 3000k 35 watt fogs, Eco bulb highs, 4300k 35 watt low all w/relay kits, DRLs/Rear Wiper removed&rear interior gutted, Sony HU W/front speakers, Tanabe nf springs, 35% tint all around, all LED lamp replacement, 09 fit progress rear sway bar, OEM block heater, full gril block, KN Filter, Honda vent visiors, group 51 battery, home made balancer/grid charger Best/Worse MPG 96/36
Just by the size of the heatsinks and their location in the plenum it is clear that the DC/DC is made to dissipate some watts. The HV fuse for the dc/dc is 30A, 150V@30A is 4500 watts.
12V@75A is only 900Watts, so the peak output current may be over 1000w?
I have several civic dc/dc units from Ron at Hybrid Battery repair, and may connect one to see what it can do.
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