I've read and read here about people who know someone who have installed an alternator when their IMA goes dead, but it all seems anecdotal. Has anyone actually done this? Are there instructions or guides somewhere out there in the internet to give assistance with such a project?
My Insight has 210K + miles on it. Last year I put in a refurbished engine (well ok, I didn't, but the Honda dealer did). And now my IMA is failed. The thing has tons of mileage on it, and quite frankly, I'm not going to put $6K into having a new battery pack. I'm not going to put $1000 into 'refurbishing' my existing pack, heck, I'm not even inclined to putting up $500 for a used pack with no idea how long it will last.
So, I'm looking at the best options I have. Everything was running just jake for the last month w/o the IMA - and with zero loss in fuel consumption - it got better even, but that is probably more due to the running the A/C less rather than not having IMA. But this week, the 12v died on me. And even with a new 12v, I get the battery/brake trouble lights lit up. I'm guessing the battery isn't getting recharged by the DC-DC converter thingamabob.
At any rate, from what I've read, the easiest and most cost effective solution will be to mount an alternator to charge the battery. The thing is, there are like a gazillion different alternators. Which would be the best one to get? Where is the best place to mount it? Anybody have these kinds of answers?
Even if your IMA battery goes dead or is removed from the car, you can still use the existing charging system. It'll only work while the engine is rotating, just like an alternator, but it will keep you going.
Cut the DVINH wire, which runs from the DC/DC converter (pin 6) to the MCM (pin A27, yel/grn).
RobertSmalls, Is there any difference between doing that and pulling that one MCM connector?
bigsibling, Just be sure that if you cut the DC-DC inhibit wire that you cut it in middle so that way it is easy to resplice it together if you ever decide repair the battery or eventually sell the car to someone who wants a working battery, it would make life a little easier. Also, be sure you flip the IMA switch off too so the DC-DC doesn't have any chance to draw from the battery that isn't working anyway. ...although it might just keep its contactor off anyway but I'd flip the switch off anyway.
There's a switch? I just downloaded all the documents I could from this site, is that detailed in the shop manuals? I haven't really been under the hood of anything since my 76 Ford Ranchero back in college (aahh..sometimes I miss the sweet rumble of the glass packs).
RobertSmalls, Is there any difference between doing that and pulling that one MCM connector?
As long as you open the circuit, it doesn't matter whether you pop pins out of the harness or cut wires. Just don't leave anything loose where it might ground out. If you were talking about unplugging the MCM, that will cause a check engine light for sure, but I think it would enable the charging system too.
@sibling: the high voltage disconnect switch is part of the battery assembly, and you have to throw it to "off" before you can remove the cover to get at these components. Make sure you read all the information in the manuals about how to not die while working near high voltage components.
As long as you open the circuit, it doesn't matter whether you pop pins out of the harness or cut wires. Just don't leave anything loose where it might ground out. If you were talking about unplugging the MCM, that will cause a check engine light for sure, but I think it would enable the charging system to.
Robert, are you saying that you have a method to drive the Insight without getting a check engine light or stored codes even if the IMA battery is the cause of an IMA code and IMA light?
Basically, I am asking if anyone has successfully removed the IMA battery pack (or disabled it - without MIMA) AND the 12v battery permanently stays charged using the DC-DC converter mod AND no check engine light lit or codes stored.
Some state inspections will not pass your car if the check engine light is on and / or codes are set....Not that I have any IMA problem right now but it would be interesting later on in years to have the option to be able to drive the Insight ignoring a failed IMA battery AND pass a state inspection (no check engine light).
JoeCVT = Just your average CVT owner
__________________
2004 CVT Red Insight (purchased May 2011)
Relocated outside temp sensor near mid engine
No other mods performed yet
2003 CVT Blue Insight
Modified version of MIMA_L (with foot pedal)
Automatic warm air intake (all season)
Low Speed Auto Stop (LSAS)
ABS - IMA regen enabler (allows regen during ABS)
Relocated outside temp sensor near mid engine
Cooling fans powered by 12V Solar Panel
2001 MT Blue Insight (purchased Nov 2011)
Not registered yet
I haven't studied this. I do know for certain which code you'll get if you leave the MCM unplugged. I don't know if you'll code for having the HV cutoff switch "off". But if you don't, then you could probably pass a state inspection with a dead IMA battery.
@all:
The Insight's battery is worth keeping around for the regen and the instant engine restarts alone. Unless your Insight has one foot in the grave, it's worth refurbishing your old battery.
IMHO, the autostop is the best feature of the battery. If you had a full highway machine, it would probably be most efficient to just remove everything in the trunk and save the weight.
I believe Hybrid-Battery-Repair.com may have a method to work without the battery. I believe it's given when someone has to send in their battery, but continue to use their car in the meantime.
Also, a simple fix for this would be to buy a 12v float charger. They are on sale at Harbor Freight now for $4 through the weekend! I bought 5! Regular price is only $8, or you can buy a motorcycle float charger for $25-35. You can connect it in a block heater sort of way to make it easy to plug in.
I'm not sure, but it might be OK if you just top it off weekly? Even if daily, it's the cheapest solution! Putting an alternator on the car would be ridiculously hard/expensive.
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Installing an alternator
