Thanks for the input, you're totally correct - I should have had it off, and when I get around to producing a better video, I'll make sure to do so. I only had it on because I'd been driving around for the last few days with the battery cover open. I decided to jump in and shoot the video without prep, as I'd been putting it off for awhile.
I've got new piggyback spade connectors now that I found in a local specialty shop, and I'll make sure to show the actual part in the kit, as well as it being connected next time around.
I think I did remove the wire when I did my install, because I had to reach in and work so hard to get that other screw loose to put on the ring terminal. But when I was test fitting the piggyback spade connectors, I was able to get everything together with my big hands without a problem. I should mention that as an option (need to make an outline) - thanks!
I haven't looked at the battery fan connector. I'd ask Mike, but I don't believe he's up for sharing any information with me at this time
. From what I've seen, he uses that and some type of plaster to make the connection fit.
IMHO, the crimp connectors are a good solution for this purpose. I've never had problems with them, as long as they're installed correctly. I would prefer a way that didn't require ANY modification to the wire, but I'm not sure if that's realistic with my resources. Do you have any other suggestions that might be better? If you're going to do a tap connection, they really are all going to tap in in the same way. I've had bad luck with 3M T-Taps, but these are far more solid in my experience.
I'm not sure that I understand your question: "Is there a reason your connector is hanging loose instead of attached?" Which connector are you referring to? And good point on MIMA - I'll have to make sure to mention that next time around!
Currently, I am not using a grommet. The "ULTRA" cables that I'm using are extremely thick, with multiple layers of insulation. Also, the holes are well machined, not sharp like you'd expect on the edges of some cheap computer cases. However, I am going to look for some grommets today that fit there for future installs. I'll most likely be running out of the ULTRA cables and instead be covering wire with heat shrink tubing which will be fine, but not as redundant without the grommet.
Regarding the fuses, I actually never used the inline connector as I had planned, after discussion about concerns over proper fusing. So what I have been doing is the same as I did on my install - crimp the diodes into the terminals, then solder the diode for the positive into a micro DC fuse that is properly rated for this application, then solder that to the wiring and cover everything with heat-shrink tubing. The diodes do have polarity so the positive only brings in power and the negative only flows outward. In the future, I'd like to have a more easily replaceable fuse, but I haven't been able to find an appropriate fuse holder for the micro DC fuse, or a properly DC rated fuse large enough to use any of the standard recepticles that I've found. As was noted by Mike, however, that fuse should never blow, unless something goes very wrong with one of the power supplies (and at that point, the charger must be fixed as well).
As far as the AC side, I am using a panel mount connector on the box itself. It's not shown in this video, and I didn't get pics of the last two chargers I built (but one is getting installed today, and maybe the other one too), so hopefully they'll show pics. With household wiring and the grid the way it is, this one has a real chance of blowing at some point, so the external access point is ideal (it's no fun taking it apart to replace a fuse).
Hope I answered everything adequately and thanks for the feedback!
Quote:
Originally Posted by satchel
For safety's sake I think you should show the main power switch in the off position in an install video(and for your own liability as well). It was kind of disconcerting seeing you poking around the live battery with the battery hot!
Like Peter says a good shot of his connection on the resistor with a piggy-back spade would be nice(I see you've added an arrow in the picture!). I forgot to look to see how tight things were last time I had the cover off but Peter suggests removing one wire over that area for easier access, did you find this necessary(I see you have it loose now that I look at the picture again)?
I am not a big fan of the 3M crimp connectors as they can damage wiring/poor connection, have you looked into the battery fan connector(04321-SH2-307) that Mike discusses? He says they are available from a Honda dealer(though would likely drive up costs). He mentions a two pin fan connector shell crossreferenced to pins w/ pigtails and I just can't picture how that would be hooked up(guess that's probably a question for Mike). Is there a reason your connector is hanging loose instead of attached? You might mention that other's wiring may look different because you have MIMA hooked up there.
Did you use a grommet where your wire passes through the vent holes or are you relying on the wires sheathing to protect it? You do have it well secured so it shouldn't be a problem. I like the idea of not drilling any new holes in the battery box.
I had the same idea for using a pc power supply as I have one around here somewhere. It's a great repurposing for a defunct electonics. I was glad to see you make it work.
Are the diodes installed in a certain direction or do they have a polarity?
The ceramic fuse you have listed in your parts list is different from the one Mike says he'll use? I'm wondering if the inline fuse holder is appropriate for the DC fuse since Mike shows a panel mount holder. I don't know, that's why I'm asking. Things just keep evolving...
Good luck with the job hunt. My Dad would say you make looking for a job your job, eight hours a day.
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Grid Charger Install Video
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