My 12V battery warning light and parking brake light came on after driving my car for a while with failed IMA. The first time it happened, it was late afternoon and will need my headlights on. Without any options, I had my car towed back home. Disconnected 12V battery and turned off main switch and did not drive my car for three weeks. Reconnected battery and turned on main switch and IMA light came back on two days later of driving. Drove the car for a while and battery light and parking brake came on again. This time, I was two miles away from home and just continue driving home. I checked 12V battery voltage and it was below 12V with engine running. The 12V battery is being charge by the DC-DC converter and what is the connection when the IMA failed? What do I need to drive my car with failed or faulted IMA system permanently? 2000 Honda Insight, bought used in 2007 with 116,000 miles. Current mileage, 195,00.
Last edited by gmacale; 01-18-2011 at 10:10 PM.
Reason: To add more information
My 12V battery warning light and parking brake light came on after driving my car for a while with failed IMA. The first time it happened, it was late afternoon and will need my headlights on. Without any options, I had my car towed back home. Disconnected 12V battery and turned off main switch and did not drive my car for three weeks. Reconnected battery and turned on main switch and IMA light came back on two days later of driving. Drove the car for a while and battery light and parking brake came on again. This time, I was two miles away from home and just continue driving home. I checked 12V battery voltage and it was below 12V with engine running. The 12V battery is being charge by the DC-DC converter and what is the connection when the IMA failed? What do I need to drive my car with failed or faulted IMA system permanently? 2000 Honda Insight, bought used in 2007 with 116,000 miles. Current mileage, 195,00.
Unplug the BCM.
That's it. Just unplug the BCM from the wiring harness.
Contact me via email if you need directions.
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2000 MT #4227 175K miles - Citrus Yellow, BetterBattery
Check the 100A fuse; especially if an OBDII scan reveals a P1575. I found mine to have failed in a very strange way, where it would support a low current connection, but as soon as any real amount of current started to flow it would interrupt the circuit. This made detecting the problem extremely difficult.
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2001 Silver Canadian DM MT (has DRL and A/C std)
Mods:
CARD switch
John Wayland's Shoebox Sub
OBDIIC&C Gauge v0.02 (Beta Test Team Member)
I've personally seen ~92A from the IMA system. I'm sure people have gotten close to 100A.
Honda should have gone with a 125 or 150A fuse, I think. Seems silly to have such a small overhead in the fuse.
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Insight #1 - Silver '01 5MT @ 158,388 as of 7/11 - Best Tank: 84.5MPG over 807mi
Insight #2 - Silver '01 5MT @ 450,000 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 86.0MPG over 800mi
Insight #3 - Silver '00 5MT, MIMA #163P, BCM Gauge, OBDIIC&C Gauge, BetterBattery @ 228,869 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 78.4mpg over 687mi
The way I use it means "around", or "approximately", or perhaps "rounded". As in the case above, it was actually above 92A, as in 92.56A, but I don't remember the exact figure.
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Insight #1 - Silver '01 5MT @ 158,388 as of 7/11 - Best Tank: 84.5MPG over 807mi
Insight #2 - Silver '01 5MT @ 450,000 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 86.0MPG over 800mi
Insight #3 - Silver '00 5MT, MIMA #163P, BCM Gauge, OBDIIC&C Gauge, BetterBattery @ 228,869 as of 1/12 - Best Tank: 78.4mpg over 687mi
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DC-DC converter
