Art's grid charger is the trick, well made, excellent installation information/photos,
and works just fine. But, backstabbing the HV connector
to hook up a multi-tester to monitor voltage seemed not a good thing.
So, here's the mod:
A 200V DC meter for $10 from China via Ebay, little hobby box from Radio shack,
wires stripped out of an old trailer harness.
I cut a hole for the meter w/a dremel, wired in the 4 wires;
2 to run the meter, the others monitor charging. Box mounted
to charger w/Velcro...
The meter is 12V powered, and as the charger
has 12V output to power the battery fan, it seemed logical to use
that rather than dealing with a 9V battery, which could have been used.
thanks for the tip. I have also always wanted to make a permanently installed meter, but could not find one which would run off the 12v that I already have rather than 9v batteries.
__________________
2002 Silver MT 225k miles LMPG - 60.8
Best Tank Distance = 722 miles @ 74.2
Be very careful those cheap meters are not isolated and the negative supply input is usually connected to the negative measurement input. so in effect you have connected the 12v- to the 180v- of the hv supply. This also connects to the insight fan so in effect you have connected the 180v- to you fan. Not great, you might get away with it but it weakens the protection as all the hv stuff is isolated from the 12v stuff in a normal car.
Be very careful those cheap meters are not isolated and the negative supply input is usually connected to the negative measurement input. so in effect you have connected the 12v- to the 180v- of the hv supply. This also connects to the insight fan so in effect you have connected the 180v- to you fan. Not great, you might get away with it but it weakens the protection as all the hv stuff is isolated from the 12v stuff in a normal car.
The connection instructions that came with it were repeated 3 times:
that the two connections must be separate, and the meter should not
be connected to the same negative terminal....
Be very careful those cheap meters are not isolated and the negative supply input is usually connected to the negative measurement input. so in effect you have connected the 12v- to the 180v- of the hv supply. This also connects to the insight fan so in effect you have connected the 180v- to you fan. Not great, you might get away with it but it weakens the protection as all the hv stuff is isolated from the 12v stuff in a normal car.
Why not just use a 10:1 or higher voltage divider mounted inside the MCM area for protection.
If it's 10:1, then the voltage at the meter will read 16.8 volts instead of 168 volts.
As for the 9 VDC requirement for the meter itself, just use a voltage regulator to reduce the incoming 12 volts.
I only mentioned the 10:1 voltage divider for safety reasons...
The battery runs almost up to 180 volts. If these wires are exposed and then broken or cut, someone could get quite a shock.
On the other hand, if the voltage divider is used, and the wires are touched, broken, or cut, then all you are presented with is 18 volts, which will not harm anyone.
I am assuming that the voltage divider is built and mounted in the trunk...
I only mentioned the 10:1 voltage divider for safety reasons...
The battery runs almost up to 180 volts. If these wires are exposed and then broken or cut, someone could get quite a shock.
On the other hand, if the voltage divider is used, and the wires are touched, broken, or cut, then all you are presented with is 18 volts, which will not harm anyone.
I am assuming that the voltage divider is built and mounted in the trunk...
Jim.
Safety-wise, the meter I installed sure beats back-stabbing the connector
with multi-tester probes to monitor voltage ....
I'm going to have to agree! Peter's BCM gauge is really the best if you've got the time and bucks to make it happen. Remember, this is going to measure 1.5v higher than the actual battery voltage!
I saw these for sale in my local shop today, but they were $20 - too steep for my taste. I wonder if I can find them at a cheaper rate. But as others have mentioned, I'd be wary to preinstall them on chargers I sell - the more complicated things get - the more way people can supposedly hurt themselves, and the more the sharks get hungry to come bite me!
I'm going to have to agree! Peter's BCM gauge is really the best if you've got the time and bucks to make it happen. Remember, this is going to measure 1.5v higher than the actual battery voltage!
I saw these for sale in my local shop today, but they were $20 - too steep for my taste. I wonder if I can find them at a cheaper rate. But as others have mentioned, I'd be wary to preinstall them on chargers I sell - the more complicated things get - the more way people can supposedly hurt themselves, and the more the sharks get hungry to come bite me!
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Grid Charger mod...
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