Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Slow4u
It seems like you could get rid of the thermostat and the pumping losses associated with it. Then control the engine temperature through a dynamic shutter grill...
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Just like most of the interest in this thread, I too have thought about the "Holy Grail" of air inlet shutter building, and for me, this will be a build for another day.
However, there are several precautions when it comes to simply removing the thermostat completely....
1) The thermostat actually maintains a higher fluid pressure in the cooling system.
2) This higher pressure increases the boiling point of the flowing liquid (anti-freeze).
3) The pressure increase is highly dependent upon coolant temperature.
4) Higher temperature fluid is less viscous, and so it flows through small passages including the thermostat more easily, which actually lowers the local pressure in the system when it's hot.
5) The higher local pressure actually helps reduce localized boiling in the engine block, especially critical around the exhaust ports.
6) Though not connected to thermostat opening, higher fluid velocity near the exhaust ports in the cylinder block, more quickly removes trapped air bubble and localized boiling.
If you live in the northern state like I do, removing the thermostat might not be a big deal. But if you're in Arizona and trapped in traffic with summer heat enveloping the engine, and with the A/C on, well removing the thermostat might not be a good idea.
I believe the location of the water pump, thermostat and engine block are all located with each other to provide higher localized pressure against fluid boiling.
Yes indeed, the water pump does indeed work harder with the thermostat in place, but I'm not sure about simply removing it without doing some more investigation into side-effects.
Jim.