Yeah, not the fan icon, etc. Mostly the SOC reading - it will flash some non-sensical value and/or characters for a second. It seemed to me to be doing it regularly just before a positive recal, such as while hanging at 72%, and also just before hitting about 81%. I thought the regularity of it might mean that there is something going on in the BCM or whatever computer - a message, a trigger, a threshold being reached - that causes the normal gauge values to tweak momentarily. That is, the flitting change in the SOC display corresponds to some real algorithm/programming/calculations that would mean something if we only knew what it meant...
Hi. Can the ODBIIC&C be used to read codes on other cars?
Ocean '00 MT
Continental Eco Contact 5s in 185/60/14.
Warm air mod
Grid Charger with timer
OBDII C&C gauge
12v solar charger
IMA solar charger
6.5in touchscreen HU
Question about the OBDIIC&C MVO reading versus grid charging and voltmeter reading. I just started a grid charge with a home made grid charger, based on the inexpensive 'GINO' constant current power supplies. Unloaded voltage of the grid charger, using a multimeter, is about 177.5V. I'm charging with the ignition on and OBDIIC&C powered up (12V battery charger on 12V batt).
A little bit after I started the grid charger, the OBDIIC&C MVO reading was 159V, while the grid charger multimeter was only 146V. Can anyone explain the discrepancy? Should they be different? On a side note, the OBDIIC&C was reading 0.3 amps input from the grid charger...
I have a new question, but first an update on my last issue:
Not totally sure what the deal is with the voltage reading, but it looks like most of the discrepancy has to do with my charger and/or multimeter. While grid charging I can take a voltage reading off of the two big leads between the HV battery and the MDM, or whatever the 'stuff on the left' is, the DC-DC converter and all that -- and it's the same as what's reported by the OBDIIC&C MVO (here about 170V). If I leave the positive probe of the multimeter on the big positive lead, while the negative probe remains on the charger, the voltage reading drops about 8 volts. If I switch, leave the negative probe on the big negative HV lead and the postive probe on charger positive lead, the voltage only drops about 1 volt. So I think I've got an issue with voltage drop due to the connections/wiring between the negative HV lead and my charger... On top of this, for some odd reason, when I touch my multimeter the voltage readout drops like 3 or 4 volts, say from 162V to 158V. Or if I set it on the metal body of the Insight trunk, same thing, voltage readout drops. very odd...
Anyhow, new question: Does the OBDIIC&C amps counting and timer reset when the SOC hits 100%? If I'm not mistaken, it looks like it did, as I had been grid charging for about 4 hours, the SoC reading hit 100%, and shortly thereafter I flipped over to the amps counter and it read only 0.05 amps in and only about 11 minutes having passed on the timer... I didn't notice this last night, when I did my initial grid charge, and I don't see how the amps counting result I got last night could possibly support this idea - that the counting reset - because I ran the charger for about 5 hours and the amps in was about 1600, which just about matches the charger output (300mA) and the time I ran it...
On a side note, the HV battery fan does quite a job cooling the pack: I started my grid charge this evening with the pack at 64 F (77.7% SoC); after about 4.5 hours it was up to 89F; I ran the fan for 5, maybe 10 minutes, and the pack temp dropped to about 70F... Ambient is about 50F...
hmm, maybe I accidentally reset it, easy to do with the flimsy joystick button...
I hear ya. Nearly every time I cycle through the parameters while changing them, I inadvertently change something I didn't want to change, at least once and sometimes 2 or 3 times. :/
Silver '00 MT
80+ psi in RE92's for the past 2 years without incident
Warm air mod
EPS fuse removed
FAS/fuel injector interrupt circuit
OBDII C&C gauge
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