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Old 02-25-2013, 04:31 PM   #681 (permalink)
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The bulbs are in series, so removing one will stop the dischaarge completely. You could change the bulbs from 300W to 150W which would accomplish your goals, but I dont see why you want to do that?
This is basically a capacity test, and we are only discharging at about 1-2A, so slower discharging will still show the same stick droping out, so only way to get deeper discharging with the whole pack discharger is to replace the sticks that are droping out with better ones.

I have finally built a test system that lets me watch all the sticks during the final discharge, so not only can I see the stick that drops out first, but see the rest.
http://99mpg.com/blog/whatactuallygo...erwaytotestaf/

I have it working nicely on a batch of misc sticks and have also last night I built another special cable so I can use the same set of 20 DVM's to do the discharge test on both Insight and first gen civic packs without requiring removing the relay board.
I made connectors that mate with the voltage tap connector that normally plugs into the BCM to take care of that side.
I only need to make a pogo contact board for the other side of the pack so all 20 sticks are monitored.The contacts will be here by the end of the week.
The meters were only $4 each, and I was able to calibrate them to within 0.01V.
This is the prototype for a microcontroller based system that would have an isolated micro reporting the voltage to a master micro, over a opto isolated serial buss.
I will be putting up more info about this and the Maxima test shortly.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:03 PM   #682 (permalink)
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Cool project and LOL at all the meters. It will be interesting data. I'm all for research and expanding our knowledge.

What is the ultimate goal with this testing of used sticks/packs though

I'm very dubious about reusing sticks in any sort of battery rebuild unless.

1) You really can't afford a new set of sticks.
2) You have the time and the skills to do the pack overhaul yourself.
3) You don't mind pulling the pack again after six months to repeat the process.

I just don't think rebuilding with old sticks will ever be sustainable or a profitable business. Too much labour involved.

Issues off the top of my head include.

Matching sticks for a full pack that will last longer than 6 months in actual use.
Physical dissasembly and assembly of the actual packs.
Constant reuse of the ptc strips. I suspect they will fracture/fail at the connections after perhaps two rebuilds.
Cost of transporting heavy packs or sticks long distances.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:36 PM   #683 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Dabrowski 2000 View Post
so slower discharging will still show the same stick droping out, so only way to get deeper discharging with the whole pack discharger is to replace the sticks that are droping out with better ones.
Pardon the dumb question from a non-electronics type, but what does a "stick dropping out" mean? I have seen the terminology in a lot of posts. Does it mean the stick stops conducting and that is why the battery can not be discharged any more until the stick is replaced with a better one (I assume a stick with cells that all have a certain voltage?)
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:41 PM   #684 (permalink)
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Mike,

I thought the benefits of discharging the "good" cells more deeply was something worth shooting for, and I wondered if discharging too rapidly was knocking out the weak cells before the good ones got very low. Your test system to monitor all the sticks at the same time sounds like the next stage, for sure. As much as we'd like to hope, we can't make bad cells good, but until I can put two packs together and/or put early sticks together to fit the HCH2 pack to make one good one, I'm just hoping to prevent hurting my good cells/sticks any further. I've got to do some more preparation in the mean time because I can't put the car out of commission for more than a few days at a time. Possibly, there isn't anything I can do, and I'm just doing more damage to the good cells?

I can't pause the discharge, so I can't see how much the voltage rebounds, but I have been looking over all Mike's stick cycling results and was trying to take the stick theory in mind. What would happen if I could pause the discharge when nearing the shut-off point and let the pack rest a little before resuming the discharge? Do we learn anything from the voltage recovery? Do we have any potential to discharge the good cells a bit more deeply? What is a theoretical scenario about how possible good cells are living amongst handfuls of bad during a discharge? Can some be still pretty high voltage, when the first is dropping to zero, or whatever voltage that triggers first rapid slope change? We just can't charge/discharge separately, so there certainly are limitations, to in-car discharging.

The thing that got me thinking was my most recent discharges have shown signs that the lowest voltage during the discharge when the slope increases too rapidly has been going up. It is pretty obvious already that I have bad cells/sticks, but as I make plans to pull the pack for more out of car testing, and try to find more HCH2 sticks worth salvaging, I've just been trying to develop my charging/discharging schedule to keep me going in the mean time. I can only make just over a week before I start seeing recalibrations. I've just been collecting data about the cycling and the results certainly aren't giving any indication that there is hope for this pack from cycling alone. I've just been working at learning as much as I can while the car is still in one operable piece.

I anxiously await your latest test results, Mike!

John

2007 HCH2
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:16 AM   #685 (permalink)
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With charger # 202 and 203 slated to ship tomorrow, and still not a lot of hard data to help us figure out how to rebuild a pack as cheaply and long lasting as possible, I wanted to get some answers, and while I would love to be tracing all 120 cells at the same time, the next best thing is to at least know what the individual subpacks are doing.
Yes the best solution is rebuilding the pack with new sticks, and yes if we have no way to determine where the sticks in the pack are in relation to each other or to a really good pack, we are going to have many false rebuilds with old sticks, but if we can start to really quantify the stick level condition under real world level testing, I expect that a pack built from used sticks that were matched properly could lase a lot more than 6 months.
An in car stick level datalogging system could go far to identify which packs are worth fixing and which are not. What is missing id the data, so this is the prototype of something better, as well as being a quick and dirty analysis tool.
I can tell you that there are many many people out there with an Insight or civic that they cannot afford to put a battery into, and cannot afford to get a new pack. They are willing to work hard to fix their old pack and just need the guidance on how to best determine the bad sticks, and to have a good source for sticks with known characteristics that will work within the rest of their pack sticks window.
The meters will be replaced with stick level isolated monitors that report to a central master that will examine the relationship of the 20 sticks under real world in car conditions, similar to a cell level BMS system, and I expect to learn a lot on the way to my A123 lithium BMS which will be the spinoff of the work.
As I mentioned in another post, After we build up the rest of the chargers (250 total), I will take a break from charger construction, and get going on the other hot projects that have been neglected.
2 days to design and build this fixture, and I can start learning with it. Not elegant, but fast and useful.
Always looking for a better window into what is happening in the batteries.
I have 2 old packs that will soon move to the tester as the sticks get replaced with the new MaxIMA sticks that I just ran two weeks of test on. A one page photo showing some full discharges at ~ 75A are compiled here:
http://99mpg.com/Data/resources/down...compressed.jpg
At the bottom are discharge traces from two of the better sticks pulled from my first cell level test of my 170K original pack.
I have 60 or more traces of the 20 MaxIMA sticks, but they all are quite similar as you can see in the photo

Lots of info there, but you need to zoom in. The key data is that the MaxIma sticks all put out 6.15 to 6.3AH under this 5-6 minute complete draining of the stick at > 75A the whole time. The two stock sticks could not make it to 5AH under the same conditions, while showing similar temperature rises. The new sticks had better IR (voltage under discharge was higher).
On other traces of not so good old sticks, the higher IR caused the temp to rise to over 130F after only 2- 3AH.
So much to learn, so little time, but it is interesting and fun.
Cactus,
I did some interrupted discharges to let the process proceed with less temperature rise, and always dropped out at just about the same AH, so the delay does not change much.
The disabled discharge test which is shown in the new photo here:
http://99mpg.com/blog/whatactuallygoeswr/firstresults/
Shows how the one stick was droping out much faster than the rest, and the only way to get below that point it to let it reverse, and see where the rest of the pack is.

Last edited by Mike Dabrowski 2000; 02-26-2013 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:37 AM   #686 (permalink)
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I agree with Pete that rebuilding a pack with used cells is limited from the standpoint of trying to make money - however since I have the grid charger and can't really afford new cells it is a pretty good option for me just to rebuild my own pack. Depending on how well I do with the rebuild I am expecting to still do regular grid charging on it to keep it balanced. How often remains to be seen but anything is better than twice a week like I do now.

I will be building a test rig like Mike's only with a single DVM on 2 pole 20t rotary switch. Not quite as good but better than straddling the pack with voltmeter leads with the pack assembled.

When I do start testing cells, besides discharging and catching drop outs I will also check individual cell temperatures during charging with an IR thermometer to find cells with high internal resistance. That was another one of Mike's ideas.

Per earlier discussion on this thread I think looking at self discharge rates of individual cells may also prove useful in assembling a balanced pack. This may best be done with a load on the pack or individual sticks being tested to remove surface voltage.
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #687 (permalink)
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My epoxy putty DIY connectors as shown here
http://99mpg.com/mikestips/quickwaytomakeacon/
lets you make a mating connector for the 10 taps. The tester shown uses a 20 position rotary switch like Jreu is planing to make.
Only down side to the switch is that you have to write down the values, instead of simply taking a picture.
On the self discharge, cycle the pack to get the last discharge run time and end voltage, the recharge the pack and let it sit for a week, then discharge to first drop out, and compare the discharger run times and see which stick drops first to get a reference number.
The better the pack, the closer the run times will be.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:27 PM   #688 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnVirginia View Post
Pardon the dumb question from a non-electronics type, but what does a "stick dropping out" mean? I have seen the terminology in a lot of posts. Does it mean the stick stops conducting and that is why the battery can not be discharged any more until the stick is replaced with a better one (I assume a stick with cells that all have a certain voltage?)
John,

The term "stick dropping out" means that the particular stick in question no longer has enough voltage (related to capacity) to continue releasing electrical energy into the load.

So if one were to continue the discharge process past this point, the stick or at least individual cells in the stick would be forced into a reverse voltage state, and start permanent damage to that stick/cell(s).

Mike's "for sale" discharger is designed to monitor to voltage drop across the pack closely enough to stop the discharge process before damage to sticks/cells occurs.

Anyone wanting to refurbish his/her pack needs to keep this information in mind when performing these actions on a home-brew discharge system.

Jim.
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Last edited by 3-Wheeler; 02-26-2013 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 02-26-2013, 01:34 PM   #689 (permalink)
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Read this section of my website, it explains and shows what it looks like
http://99mpg.com/Projectcars/underst...gnatrureoface/
Also may want to read this:
http://99mpg.com/blog/whatactuallygoeswr/
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:36 PM   #690 (permalink)
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O.k., I have to say it... Mike's Grid Charger along with discharger and Labview is absolutely the best system on the market today. There is nothing that compares to its versatility and available functions.

Because of its versatility, you can make things as simple or complex as you want.

And if you spend time watching all the videos, reading the manual, and just plain playing around with the system, you will get even more excited about it.

Seriously!


I am working on two different packs right now, and have two more in the near future.

And all I can say is, "Wow".

I don't know where Mike finds the time to not only think up these ideas, but to execute them, and document them for the end user.

I started out with a simple 1 time charger of a pack.
Tried out Mode 1.
Tried out Mode 2.

From there I progressed to a discharge cycle via Mode 6
Then a slow charger with extra soak.
Then discharge in tech edit mode.
Played around with Labview zooming in graphs, moving them around.
Taking screen shots.
Edited the on/off data bits on the charger.
Then edited them via labview reading/writing to the charger.
Opened up the pack and did a deep discharge to see which sticks dropped out first.

So much FUN!

Can't wait to try Mode 7, Pulsed Discharge, no charge current. ( "It is intended for use with an AC Voltmeter to provide an idea of relative internal resistance of the battery pack.")

I know I should post up pics, but for now they are isolated on my old XP machine, as opposed to the one I'm using now.

No questions right now but just wanted to reiterate the fact that Genesis One products are incredible. Thanks, Mike!
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