The recommended lead does not end in a serial plug it ends in a USB one. It has the serial/usb converter built in.
I just clicked the link in your quote of my post and it took me straight to the right one.
OBDIIC&C $50 inc software, pcb, switch and obdii plug.
IMAC&C HCH1 $50 inc software and pcb.
Voila! I think I may have accidently just fallen into a gold mine. I had previously purchased the USB to Serial Adapter recommended by Mike Dabrowski to log data from the grid charger. It is SewellDirect.com part number SW-1301, and comes with the driver on a CD. According to the package, it give me a bus powered serial port to my modern laptop.
OK, now I think I understand. Peter recommends a cable which works directly to a USB plug, Eli recommended a cable, in post #27, which ends in serial plug and requires an additional adapter. I bought the wrong cable, the one that Eli recommended, but hey what is a couple of bucks among friends
Eli, you should edit post # 27 before someone else goes down the wrong road, or the right road if they already have an adapter. Just make the choices a bit clearer
I think I'm still functional, because I fortunately had already bought a serial/USB adapter. Nothing lost - I think
I'm not going to recommend that people spend another $25 on a device that already approached $200..for a simple cable, no less. The $6 cable plus $2 serial to USB converter is fine.
Obviously it's up to the individual on what they want to do. The options are out there.
Ok, I understand. It had occured to me that I myself had accidently fallen into a cheaper option - since I already had the adapter. Cheap is good - as you say. But do think a bit about editing post #27 to make the options a bit clearer. No hard feelings I hope.
Hooked us my OBDII C&C to my "new" silver 2001 that I got the good price on for the "dead" battery and IMA lights. Went out and did the Amp/hour counting test with some pretty sad results. Did the test twice and got .64A/h in 1:44 minutes, and .67 A/h in 2:54 minutes. So, it does appear that the battery is very weak.
Of some interest to me is that with my hypermiling type driving, it hasn't thrown an IMA light so long as I keep the battery SOC 70% or so.
One problem the guy had was a bunch of bad grounds and I notice he replaced all those cables. I'm wondering if that might have been partially responsible for the IMA light?
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