I'll bet it came on cause the cells are starting to fail. It could have come on after any event. There is no one action that causes the IMA codes, except using the assist and regen...
What year is your car? I'm selling my Grid charger for $400, pm if you're interested.
__________________
Rush
#1 - 2000 Silver #4965, not working now, 175k Miles, 61 LMPG - will probably turn into all Electric
#2 - 2000 Silver #4095, 212k Miles, 55 LMPG, OBDIIC&C by Peter, GCIM1 by Mike, New MaxIMA by Eli www.TucsonEV.com
Tucson AZ
Of course it is possible that it is just coincidence, but I just got my first one after starting to grid charge with a dumb charger worries me. I have known that everything wasn't perfect, though, as the battery gauge always shows nearly full. Right up until it recals, anyway. I have a 2000.
Of course it is possible that it is just coincidence, but I just got my first one after starting to grid charge with a dumb charger worries me. I have known that everything wasn't perfect, though, as the battery gauge always shows nearly full. Right up until it recals, anyway. I have a 2000.
Don't get discouraged. I had grid charged my pack every weekend for 14 weeks after I built my dumb charger. Then I stopped grid charging; and so far it's been 5 weeks and no more recals (knock on wood). I do have the Calpod switch so I can turn off assist going up small hills.
My battery pack seems to have responded well to long charges (18+ hours). I still haven't tried forced discharging (which I read somewhere on this forum revives battery capacity); but maybe will do so in the spring.
Its already sold, sorry will put it up on the thread.
__________________
Rush
#1 - 2000 Silver #4965, not working now, 175k Miles, 61 LMPG - will probably turn into all Electric
#2 - 2000 Silver #4095, 212k Miles, 55 LMPG, OBDIIC&C by Peter, GCIM1 by Mike, New MaxIMA by Eli www.TucsonEV.com
Tucson AZ
Thanks. Looking at Peter's picture seems to show a diode on both the positive and negative leads to the battery connections. Guess I will do that. I ordered two of the GINO 30-90 V 300ma power supplies today. Hopefully I will get them! Have not decided on the 12V supply for the battery fan. May wait and see if I can get the charger up and working first and then add the fan.
My order for the two GINO's (8 Nov) from Amazon came in on 14 Nov.
Both looked identical to the pics I had seen on this thread and the Amazon site except on both the output side had a connector installed and what looked like high temp insulation around the output wires.
Tried to open up by removing the screws and orangey end caps, but found the white case seems to be heat sealed in a couple of places on the bottom and was concerned about breaking the case if I tried to pry open. Any suggestions? I wanted to have an open case installation for possible heat disipation.
Also bought a couple of diodes from Radio Shack. Specs on package of 400V Peak Inverse voltage (PIV), 1.6V Forward Voltage Drop, 1A Forward current, 30A Max surge current 8.3 ms,30 ma reverse current at PIV. Will installing these on the positive and negative battery connections to the IMA battery provide the necessary safety for prevent large current/voltages coming back from the IMA battery? Is it correct that the diode is good up to an input of 400V before it becomes a conducter back (failed state) to the charger? If the battery can only go up to about 200V then seems these would be ok. The diodes I bought seem a lot smaller than the one in the picture of the diodes Peter used. His look more like RS's 4A ones. Does size mean anything like how many amps they will take?
Reading online about diodes (so many types?) beyond the basic concept that they can be use to prevent current flow in one direction soon became a lot of gobbley goop to me (tis the turkey season (USA) though).
Spent part of this day re-reading this entire thread to see if I could glean any more knowledge before I start.
Any suggestions on a source (online or local) for a good battery harness to charger connecter, preferably one that could be mounted (rigidly?)somewhere in the back? Local RS did not appear to handle anything suitable, but said they were going to get in more Molex connecters.
What guage/spec wire should I use (180V, 300+-ma seems to be max running around)? Wiring on the GINO's seem rather small.
This harness is designed to be safe, and is made to fit the Insight pack, has a safety cover and only needs your HV and 12V from the dumb charger. When the charger is plygged in, the fan runs.
the install instructions are here:
That way if the dumb charger does not bring the pack back, you have the option of getting the smart charger and discharger to do a more thorough reconditioning.
Yes diodes come in many forms and sizes, the 400V radioshack ones are fine for the 350ma and 180V the charger will put out.
I have several of the smaller maintenance chargers that were traded in for the bigger GCO1.
I am getting them upgraded and selling them for $400, with the latest code and the discharger connector.
Contact me if your interested.
My order for the two GINO's (8 Nov) from Amazon came in on 14 Nov.
...Tried to open up by removing the screws and orangey end caps, but found the white case seems to be heat sealed in a couple of places on the bottom and was concerned about breaking the case if I tried to pry open. Any suggestions? I wanted to have an open case installation for possible heat disipation...
fyi, the back/bottom is just snapped into place. Try to wedge your fingernail or a pocket knife blade in the crack between the upper body and the back, and gently pry. You'll see where there's a couple little nubs that hold the back on...
fyi, the back/bottom is just snapped into place. Try to wedge your fingernail or a pocket knife blade in the crack between the upper body and the back, and gently pry. You'll see where there's a couple little nubs that hold the back on...
Yes, that worked. Thanks. I noticed that once the case is removed one could easily mix up input/output and corresponding plus/minus wires upon reassembly (by placing the board in reversed). I/O and plus/minus are labeled on the case only. For us that are electronically challenged, that could be bad news. Luckily I have two chargers and can do a visual check that they match after reassembly. (After a certain age one begins to doubt and expect to do dumb things).
This harness is designed to be safe, and is made to fit the Insight pack, has a safety cover and only needs your HV and 12V from the dumb charger. When the charger is plygged in, the fan runs.
the install instructions are here: Insight Harness installV3 - YouTube
That way if the dumb charger does not bring the pack back, you have the option of getting the smart charger and discharger to do a more thorough reconditioning.
Yes diodes come in many forms and sizes, the 400V radioshack ones are fine for the 350ma and 180V the charger will put out.
I have several of the smaller maintenance chargers that were traded in for the bigger GCO1.
I am getting them upgraded and selling them for $400, with the latest code and the discharger connector.
Contact me if your interested.
Thanks for the info and offer. I'm mulling everything over.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.